L'Avenir - Cruising Europe's Inland Waterways

Last close encounter. Last barbie. In the rain but we had a pile of chops and sausages in the freezer which we'd been saving for a (non) rainy day. Last kibbeling (deep fried pieces of cod) - with mayonnaise of course. A hugely popular snack sold from fish vans at markets. This was at Leiden. Our second visit there. Last time was at the height of summer and the town was crowded with tourists. Last port before home - Leaving Leiden harbour. Last moments of voyage. Arriving at Kempers Marina, Leimuiden. L'Avenir's berth for the winter. Last drama. Cleaning the mud off the bikes after fishing them out of the water where they'd been blown during a storm. Fortunately the water was fairly shallow. And finally- Last goodbyes. Winter covers on L'Avenir and our bags packed.

As we near the end of this year's trip there are the inevitable 'last times' for things. Sometimes those occasions make us feel a little sad and others evoke (from me anyway) a sigh of relief, a silent thank goodness that's over and a not so silent 'Don't ever ask me to do that again.' The final in the latter category being crossing the main shipping channel of the Amsterdam Rijn Canal . This is the main North South route for commercial traffic, is exceedingly busy and pleasure craft are advised to use alternative routes if at all possible. We needed to cross over it to get from the canal from Utrecht to the canal and river (Hollandse Ijssel) taking us to Gouda. It's not far - a lock taking you down a metre or so to the level of the channel, a couple of hundred metres directly across it and then another lock up onto the Hollandse Ijssel. I often think that locks are a bit like the Tardis (ok that might be a bit of a long shot but we've been watching...

The bridges over the canal through Utrecht are only 3.25m high so we are a bit nervous (well I am) about our ability to get through. We'll have to take down our canopy, nav frame and windscreen - and then duck! The first bridge The lock keeper tells us we'll be fine as long as we can get through the first bridge as it's the lowest. The canal basin with lock in the background. If we can't fit under the city bridges we'll have to turn around and go back. Entrance to the tunnel I'm more concerned about the tunnel in the centre of the city as it has a bend. It's also the focal point for the whole city and overlooked by cafes full of people hoping for some entertainment. The Dutch Film Festival is in full swing at the moment as well and there are people doing interviews to camera on every corner so any stuff up is bound to find its way onto film. It seems I always have to be worried about something. University The old part of Utr...

And that's not only the flag. Things have gone pretty well this summer but there's nothing quite like a force 7+ gale to blow away your complacency. Over the past few days we have been wending our way back south and west towards Amsterdam. We locked out of the deserted canals of eastern Holland onto the River Ijssel and then out onto the Randmeren - a series of meers, or lakes, 97km in length. When we came this way 3 months ago it was sunny and the lakes were full of yachts and cruisers. I remember commenting then that I wouldn't like to do it in bad weather.... The first 2 days weren't too bad. Just wet. A year ago, when we first embarked upon this, a woman said to me, 'Don't worry about rain. It can't hurt. Worry about the wind.' We've had plenty of windy days along the way but it's really a question of where you are when they start blowing. Out on a meer wouldn't be your first choice. The final in the series of meers is Markermeer which ...

This was taken on the canal from Hoogeveen to Coevorden (which I pronounce incorrectly of course). It's a very quiet canal - we met only one boat this day - but there are dozens of bridges. Some, like this one, are old swing bridges others are modern automated ones. Each bridgekeeper is responsible for between 3 and 5 bridges. They work you through and then jump in their car and drive to the next and open it as you approach. When they have completed their stint they phone on to the next bridge keeper. It all works beautifully unless you upset the system by stopping . We stopped overnight in a small town called Nieue-Amsterdam which incidentally bears no resemblance to old Amsterdam. It's only claim to fame is that Van Gogh stayed there for 2 months. We set off the next day and there was no-one expecting us at the first bridge. There was a phone number but the bridge keeper who answered didn't speak any English at all and my few words of Dutch were apparently unrecognisab...

A delivery of thatch for a new roof seems less trouble than tiles. And look - they do still wear wooden clogs in Friesland.

Ever dreamt of an idyllic cruise on the European waterways? Long, hot summer days spent drifting along picturesque rivers. Stopping off in quaint villages for a glass of chilled wine or pilsener and some locally made cheese. Your stress lapping away like the ripples from your boat..... Well, so did a few other people. Sunday afternoon waiting for the bridge to open into the village of Akkrum in Friesland. The last weekend of the school holidays.

O h to be clever enough to add a map. But I'm not, so pictures it is. We left from Leimuiden (not far from Schiphol airport) where we had left our boat over the winter and went first to Amsterdam Six Haven Marina opposite Central Station and next to one of the free ferries - consequently very popular. The marina isn't very big but the harbourmaster makes the most of every inch of available space. As you motor in he appears on his bike, blowing a whistle and gesticulating wildly directing you to a spot. As the day progresses more and more boats are squeezed in around you. First thing next morning it's musical chairs as everyone needs to move to let others out and then it's gloves off and a mad dash for the best vacant berths. Nemo building. Taken from our boat as we approach Central Station Amsterdam. Ferries to the left, ferries to the right, very fast ferries to the rear, barges ploughing down the middle. For the first time this year - but not the las...