Our next port of call was to be Viviers in the Ardeche. When we travelled south a few years ago this port had been closed. It is now one of the major stops for the cruise ships so we were keen to see what was there.
The day was, once again, windy and overcast which was a pity as this stretch eventually passes through the dramatic scenery of the Donzère Gorge. First though we said goodbye to the river itself and travelled 30km along a straight canalised section before negotiating the deepest (23m) lock of them all - the écluse Bollene.
Entering this vast lock from downstream feels slightly intimidating. It is dark, dank, dripping and slimy and the sky is a long way off. This watery elevator needed to lift us the height of a 7 storey building. The upstream gates are unusual in that they are curved to better withstand the force of the river behind them. It doesn't do to think too much about all that water pressing against.
After the gates behind close there are a couple of minutes of stillness before the floating bollards begin their chorus of eerie moans and wails; a ghostly choir accompaniment. Not your usual lift music!
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| Floating bollard |
Once out of the lock and past the nuclear power station and the floodgates we rejoined the river as it narrows and enters the Donzère Gorge.
A statue of the archangel St Michel stands high on a hill on the right bank looking over towards the 100m high cliffs on the other side. The statue was erected by the community of Viviers in thanks for being spared from bombing during WW2.
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| Donzère Gorge. Statue of St Michel high on the top of the limestone crag |
The port de plaisance at Viviers is just off the main channel. We hadn't made a reservation but there were several free spots in the recently upgraded marina. There's a long quay along the river bank which was empty when we arrived. Not for long though - 2 large cruise ships followed us in, stayed for a few hours whilst their passengers went off for a bus tour of the Ardeche and then were swftly replaced by another 2 ships. Busy place.
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| Traffic jam at Viviers quay |
The medieval town is a short walk from the port. At least the lower part is; the bit with the shops and tradespeople. The ecclesiastical sector, of course, occupies the lofty heights with the best views. The 12th century cathedral, which dominates the town, is a steep hike up steps and winding cobbled streets. There has been a bishops' seat here since the 5th century but habitation predates that due to its strategic position high on a limestone crag overlooking the Rhone valley.
Not many of the cruise ship passengers were in evidence in the town, possibly because it's an energetic climb. So it's not, as yet, over run with tourist shops. In fact I don't think there are any at all. The buildings are a mix of attractive renovated (or semi renovated) houses and many total ruins. From the ramparts around the small cathedral(the oldest there is an amazing view over the rooftops (or where the roofs would be if they still existed) out over the river. For a while I watched an ancient man working inside the remains of one building - only 4 walls still standing - lifting heavy stones and slowly moving them from one place to another. I wondered how long he'd been at it: had he been a young man when he began?
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| Look closely and you can see the old man at the bottom of the photo |
Viviers is most definitely worth a visit as is the surrounding region judging by the brochures given to me by the port captain. Too hilly for the bikes though (for me at least).
Some views of and from the town.
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| Renaissance fresco on 16th century House of Chevaliers, Viviers |
