L'Avenir - Cruising Europe's Inland Waterways

A delivery of thatch for a new roof seems less trouble than tiles. And look - they do still wear wooden clogs in Friesland.

What is it that this family in Joure is gazing at? Answer - the clock on the church tower. Clocks and watches have been made in Joure since the mid 1600 s. The watchmaker beside the church has a fine collection of beautiful old clocks and the oldest one in the window is connected to a speaker in the street so you walk to the slow rhythm of the tick tock. A little disconcerting being reminded of the seconds of your life. I haven't worn a watch since we arrived in Holland. Not because time has become irrelevant. It hasn't - not completely. We still need to know when bridges and locks are operational. I haven't needed a watch because there's usually a church tower visible and they often have not only a clock but also a carillon. I love the sounds of these, always cheerful. The first peal begins at 8am. The get up and get moving signal. Thereafter they play short tunes on the quarter and half hour and the full version on the hour. The final tune is at 8pm.We stayed...

The Turf Route is a narrow, shallow canal in SE Friesland once used to transport turf from the peat diggings. There's only one peat excavation left now and it provides peat for pot plants rather than turf for heating houses. The canal, which  is open for only 4 months a year, is a step back in time with its manually operated locks and bridges. You pay a small fee at the first lock to cruise this canal but moorings are free. Many of the bridges are self operated which means someone has to jump off and swing them open. However, as it's school holiday time most of them have a kid stationed there who will do it and then either swing out a clog on a line or hold out a hat for a tip of 50 cents (1 Aussie dollar). A lock keeper told me they have nearly 2500 boats through in a season so it's a nice little earner. But you're out in all weathers and you have to guard your spot. This boy in Appelsc...

O h to be clever enough to add a map. But I'm not, so pictures it is. We left from Leimuiden (not far from Schiphol airport) where we had left our boat over the winter and went first to Amsterdam Six Haven Marina opposite Central Station and next to one of the free ferries - consequently very popular. The marina isn't very big but the harbourmaster makes the most of every inch of available space. As you motor in he appears on his bike, blowing a whistle and gesticulating wildly directing you to a spot. As the day progresses more and more boats are squeezed in around you. First thing next morning it's musical chairs as everyone needs to move to let others out and then it's gloves off and a mad dash for the best vacant berths. Nemo building. Taken from our boat as we approach Central Station Amsterdam. Ferries to the left, ferries to the right, very fast ferries to the rear, barges ploughing down the middle. For the first time this year - but not the las...