L'Avenir - cruising Europe's inland waterways

Our recent cruise through Paris was rather more exciting than I would have liked. This was to be the second time we'd sailed beneath those famous bridges this year and the third time in total so we were feeling pretty relaxed and looking forward to the experience. I should know better by this time. The Seine approaching Paris that afternoon was fairly busy with commercial ships. I am always surprised at just how many ships and barges load and discharge along the city's quays. Paris is still a thriving working port which is good to see. We shared a couple of the huge Seine locks with some large vessels but that was no problem. They are just in a hurry to be on their way and our rule of thumb on commercial waterways is to keep out of the way. The nearer you get to the city centre the more narrow and congested the river becomes and if you can't keep out of the way you have to try to keep up. Things start to become interesting at the Eiffel Tower which is where the many Bate...

There are lots of Chatillons in France - a medieval castle once stood in each.  The Donjon dating from 1190 still stands in Chatillon Coligny and many medieval buildings remain in the narrow winding streets within the walls of this ancient fortified town. The town could not be more welcoming to boaters providing great moorings with electricity, water, showers, toilets and wifi and all for free! We always try to give back to any community that provides a mooring by spending some money in the local shops. Chatillon Coligny's facilities are so good that they merited a bit more than the normal day to day shopping and so we decided to go out for dinner at the upmarket restaurant. It was still light when we left the boat. Even although it was Saturday night these small country towns close down fairly early. There were a few people and some traffic around but the shops were shut and the bar owners were busy washing down their floors and stacking the tables and chairs. The restaurant ...

Le Martin Pecheur (Kingfisher), Nargis, France I am no great believer in coincidences but what are the odds of this? Late yesterday afternoon, we were looking for a place to moor for the night. There seemed to be nowhere. No villages, no picnic areas, nothing to tie to except trees (not really allowed). Just at that beginning to be fed up point we rounded a bend and saw a bar/restaurant ahead which, unlike many canalside businesses, was still open. Even more surprisingly, hanging from a flagpole was a Saltire (Scottish flag). Seeing our Saltire on the boat a man on the terrace called out in the question that everyone in Scotland is answering today 'How are you voting?' Like this Scottish owner of the bar we don't have a vote but we do have an opinion or two so we tied up to the convenient rail and joined him to discuss them. What a great evening in a Scottish bar, filled with Scottish memorabilia, drinking McEwans Export and discussing the Referendum! Great t...

The dubious thrill of speeding downstream has been replaced by a slow slog against the current. The Canal du Somme terminates at the sea port of Saint Valery and as we weren’t about to brave a Channel crossing to England we turned around in order to retrace our watersteps. Doubling back is not as boring as you might imagine. You know what to expect and where to stop which relieves some uncertainty (oh it is such a worry filled life we lead), you get a second chance to visit the places you missed on the way down and invariably the weather is quite different which completely changes the character of the trip. So, our journey back was slower, stress free and best of all, sunny. As regards filling the gaps on places we missed, Rob cycled from Cappy up to the village of Villers Bretoneux in order to visit the Franco-Australian museum which was apparently well worth the hard slog up 2 long hills. A week previously torrential rain had forced us to give up at the Australian Memorial...

It’s been wet on the Somme. Who’d have expected that?   According to the local paper this has been the rainiest August since 2001. Our policy of not moving in the wet has had to be abandoned for fear we’d be stuck here for weeks- and we only have weeks left. Our return flights to Australia are now only one page flip away on the calendar and we have to be a long way from here by the end of September. Torrential rain and rivers are not a good combination. All that water has to go somewhere and that is downstream at high speed towards the sea. The current has been running at speeds of around 6 or 7km an hour which might not seem fast to those of you speeding in your cars but believe me on a narrow winding river with oncoming boats, weirs, bridges and locks it can be quite exciting. The speed limit on canals is normally around 6kph but as you need to keep up some engine speed in order not to lose all steering you end up going at a faster lick than is comfortable – for me anyway. ...

Villers Bretonneaux Now that the tunnel trauma is out of the way it’s time to move on up the canal to Cambrai. We initially intended spending only a couple of days here but the port captain suggested we stay for the ‘fete’ over the long weekend – not having any other pressing plans (any plans at all) we agreed. There was a religious aspect to the celebrations invovlving a relic from the cathedral processing around the town but that was to become rather lost amidst the bright flashing lights, loud music and screaming crowds being whirled, twirled and hurled in all directions at the biggest carnival I have ever seen. Not only the main square but every other square and street in the town was crammed full of rides and sideshows. The carnival was actually in town for not just the weekend but the whole week forcing cars taking people to and from work to patiently squeeze through strolling crowds intent on winning a cuddly toy at a rifle range or hooking a plastic duck in a pond – w...