Marseillian and the Etang de Thau

Marseillian, 2km around the corner from the Canal de Midi, is the first port on the Etang de Thau and a welcome, if expensive, stopover before tackling the 21km to the Canal de Rhone au Sete. Coming in the other direction, particularly if you've made the trek down the Rhone, arriving at the little port is the moment you feel, 'We've made it.'
The bustling quays of the pretty port are lined with small restaurants all serving, amongst other delicacies, oysters from the extensive oyster beds in the etang. They could not be more fresh and if you are a fan of oysters you won't be disappointed. The other speciality of the town is Noilly Prat (vermouth) and you can go and see how that has been made here since 1813 at the Maison Noilly Prat, in the rue Noilly. We didn't go but I understand the manufacture is a rather arcane process involving secret recipes and so on.

Passing one of the oyster beds - Etang de Thau

As well as being a working fishing port the town is popular with holidaymakers taking some time out from the close-by Mediterranean beaches. For us it is a lovely place to relax on deck for a few days and watch the passing parade; a glass of something chilled in hand, a plate of oysters on the table, all against the beautiful backdrop of the etang. Once again we remind ourselves how lucky we are.

Marseillian at night

The etang (lagoon) takes about 2 hours to cross. Navigation is not permitted for pleasure craft if winds are at or above force 4 as large waves can quickly develop and conditions become dangerous. The day we left the Midi and entered the etang the water was mirror-like. The morning we set off on our crossing the skies were still blue but the wind was beginning to blow- not too strongly but enough to make the trip a bit lumpy and for spray to be thrown up.
On the whole it was pleasant enough- much more so than on our way south.  The channel is marked by very few markers and they are far apart and difficult to spot. I am never comfortable on large expanses of water so I was happy when, with a little help from the ipad and GPS we spotted the entrance to the Canal de Rhone a Sete.
This end of the etang near Sete has new developments of apartments along the headland separating the lagoon and the Mediterranean. On entering the canal however, original fisherman's cottages still line the banks. Hopefully these simple homes will remain for many years to come.