The End of the Midi

Beziers from the aqueduct over the River Orb

After the excitement of Fonserannes locks we initially planned to stop in Beziers for a few days. 'Stay until next week,' we were encouraged repeatedly. 'For the Feria' (the festival of the bulls). Since bullfighting has been banned in some parts of Spain the event in Beziers has become even more popular with up to a million people crowding into the city for a week each August. The streets are jam packed every night with competing styles of music and dancing, fireworks, light shows and horse riders. All very noisy, spectacular and enjoyable we were assured. The event does centre around bull fighting however, which remains well supported in this area of France.Whilst we have never been to a bull fight (nor would we go) we have seen bull running in small towns. The young bulls weren't injured but they were teased and seemed very confused and frightened.

The old city (which we'd explored previously and is certainly worth looking around) is a long, uphill walk along very busy roads. The prospect of doing that every evening to join the massive crowds wasn't overly appealing nor was waiting around in the port for a week in the extremely hot and windy conditions. We decided we would give the Feria a miss.
We can recommend the new boutique brewery beside the port though. La Gorge Fraiche - a brave venture in a major wine producing area = brews and sells very good beer. It is located in the old sugar mill; one of the few original buildings in the area not threatened with demolition during the planned redevelopment around the old port i.e. apartments and concrete.

From Beziers to the end of the Midi (or should that be the beginning?) the canal closely follows the Mediterranean coast. No more than a bike ride away, should you be able to find a place to stop.

Busy Portiragnes Plage on the Mediterranean - a 5km bike ride through salt marsh tracks from the canal. I got lost on the way back. The beach was not really worth the effort to be honest.

There are still many hire boaters on this stretch for whom the scenery might be a bit disappointing. No views at all, no remaining plane trees and no replanting until after the second last lock of the canal -round lock at Agde.

Agde round lock. It has 3 sets of gates. We were the only boat this overcast day.

But then the canal banks flatten out and the vista opens up over the beautiful etang de Thau. When we passed this way 5 years ago these final few kilometres were blighted by abandoned, sinking wrecks and shabby, unregulated liveaboard boats. These have now been cleared away. Any remaining vessels have permits and proper moorings. And what a difference this makes. Instead of the eye been drawn to the banks lined with sad, uncared for boats we look up and out over the beautiful wide and wild lake.