Against the Flow. Saint Gilles - Aramon

Chateau de roi René, Taracson - 12th/15th century

Our overnight mooring on a small jetty near Saint Gilles was to be our final stop on the French canals for this year. We still had a long way to travel but it would all be by river; firstly the Petite Rhone, then the Rhone and finally the Saone (with a short side trip onto the Seille). Excluding the Seille, a distance of about 500km and all against the current. By this time it was mid August. Summer continued to be very hot and dry so we were anticipating conditions would be as favourable as they would ever be but you never can tell.

Final night on the canals - near Saint Gilles

The first of the 19 locks ahead of us (onto the Petite Rhone) is 190m long x 11.40 - the same dimensions as the locks on the Rhone itself. However, unlike the others the change in water level was virtually imperceptible. From the lock to the Rhone proper is 21 km, a little over 2 hours. We saw no one on the river bar a couple of small fishing boats. The Petite Rhone joins the Rhone quite close to Arles. We had toyed with the idea of going there but from what we had heard, mooring safely is a a problem so, when we came to the junction of the big river, we turned left and upstream.
Finding places to stop on a river is always a problem. The Rhone is a busy waterway carrying large commercial barges and river cruise ships. Commercial traffic has priority, of course, not only at locks but also at many quays. The nights' stops required planning - not one of our fortes but necessary.

Approaching the first lock on the Rhone

In we go - on our own

There was none of the usual lazing around all morning, drinking numerous cups of tea whilst wasting time keeping up with Brexit shenanigans on our new, whizz bang, internet deal then deciding to saunter off after lunch. No, we were up and away first thing  (well by around 10-ish) with a stopping place in mind and a back-up, if possible, in case the first option was taken. We were also hoping to try and visit some of the places we had missed out on our our trip south.

Aramon at dawn - view from the porthole

That first evening though we found ourselves once again at Aramon where we'd spent almost 2 weeks 5 years ago, waiting for the elusive courier to pick up our non-functional, expensive a/c unit and return it to the UK. This was the long running saga of our trip south (spoiler, he never caught up with us until Toulouse).We'd had a very enjoyable stay there though, along with a great group of boaters.
We had hoped to go on to Avignon but it had taken a little longer than anticipated at the first of the huge locks at Beaucaire and we didn't want to risk not finding a space at the popular city late in the day.
Sadly, the flamboyant ex fighter pilot, port captain Olivier, has departed and the port is now run by the commune which has doubled the price - now 40 euros for one night. We were the sole visitng boat. We left first thing the next morning.

Aigues Mortes

Aigues Mortes

The name Aigues Mortes means Dead Water (stagnant water) presumably from the marshlands surrounding the city. Not a very attractive name but for once a place outshines its moniker. The city dates from 1240 and was built as a Mediterranean seaport from which King Louis 1X launched 2 Crusades. Ramparts, 10m high and 1.750km long, surround the city.

Residential area a few streets away from the tourist centre - Aigues Mortes

Town basin and swing railway bridge - Aigues Mortes

l'Avenir at Aigues Mortes

Salt pyramids and pink salt marsh Aigues Mortes. 

View from the ramparts

We arrived a week too early for the medieval festival which seems to be par for the course this trip. We had been there for it on our previous visit  when our timing seemed better so we weren't too disappointed.
The town was full of tourists but away from the immediate centre of cafes, restaurants and gift shops it is remarkably quiet. Aigues Mortes seems a little like Carcassonne by the sea to me but, unlike Carcassonne, it does still have ordinary families living within its walls- not just proprietors of tourist shops.
We stayed for a couple of days mooring for free in the town basin just outside the city walls.Time to put our windscreens back in place now that we were past all the low bridges.  A turn on the antique carousel and then 'au revoir' to the south of France.

Some more 'not wild' Camargue horses in the canal just outside Aigues Mortes

La Maguelone

We made fairly quick progress along the Rhone a Sete canal stopping over only in Frontignan, La Maguelone and Aigues Mortes.
There are 3 little jetties at La Maguelone but one of them is now used exclusively for a passenger ferry service. The other 2 can be tricky to moor on in high winds (which is often) so there's a good chance that one will be free. They are right beside a floating swing footbridge powered by a large outboard. When the bridge operator sees a boat approaching he or she closes it off to pedestrians then, judging things to the millisecond, has the bridge open at the exact moment the boat arrives. As soon as the boat begins to pass through s/he goes into reverse and the bridge sweeps to a close just metres behind the boat. There's not much margin for error so don't wait around! So, boats heading south are presented with an opening bridge and lots of pedestrians waiting to cross and maybe they feel obliged to continue through or don't have time to notice the jetties. Whatever the reason, when we arrived the jetties were free and the other side of the bridge had about 20 boats lined up along a bank so low that I don't know how you'd get back on board once you'd disembarked.

The footbridge and arched gateway at La Maguelone

Footbridge in operation

The bridge links a carpark to La Maguelone where there was once an ancient settlement and cathedral. The cathedral has been partially restored and may be visited but mostly people come here to go to the beach.

Early morning at La Maguelone beach before the crowds arrive

Petit Train which ferries beachgoers to and from the bridge (free of charge)

Sunset over the etang

Camargue

What image does the word Camargue conjure up for you? I'd bet wild, white horses galloping through water,

-the reality

Neither are they all white. Foals are born dark and gradually become white by 5 yrs old

- or perhaps vast flocks of pink flamingoes

Egret at La Maguelone.  Nice pink cottage though.

-not a single one I'm afraid.


The marshlands seemed a lot drier than we remember the previous time we were here, when we definitely did see flamingoes. The horses were just as laid back then though. One welcome consequence of the dryness (for us that is) was the complete absence of mosquitoes.

The landscape is still beautiful however. The canal really only skirts the wilderness area and it is a shifting landscape so, I daresay, the flamingoes (and mozzies) are flourishing a little further away.

No longer any access to this abandoned house except by boat

Fishermen's homes alongside the etangs.

Marseillian and the Etang de Thau

Marseillian, 2km around the corner from the Canal de Midi, is the first port on the Etang de Thau and a welcome, if expensive, stopover before tackling the 21km to the Canal de Rhone au Sete. Coming in the other direction, particularly if you've made the trek down the Rhone, arriving at the little port is the moment you feel, 'We've made it.'
The bustling quays of the pretty port are lined with small restaurants all serving, amongst other delicacies, oysters from the extensive oyster beds in the etang. They could not be more fresh and if you are a fan of oysters you won't be disappointed. The other speciality of the town is Noilly Prat (vermouth) and you can go and see how that has been made here since 1813 at the Maison Noilly Prat, in the rue Noilly. We didn't go but I understand the manufacture is a rather arcane process involving secret recipes and so on.

Passing one of the oyster beds - Etang de Thau

As well as being a working fishing port the town is popular with holidaymakers taking some time out from the close-by Mediterranean beaches. For us it is a lovely place to relax on deck for a few days and watch the passing parade; a glass of something chilled in hand, a plate of oysters on the table, all against the beautiful backdrop of the etang. Once again we remind ourselves how lucky we are.

Marseillian at night

The etang (lagoon) takes about 2 hours to cross. Navigation is not permitted for pleasure craft if winds are at or above force 4 as large waves can quickly develop and conditions become dangerous. The day we left the Midi and entered the etang the water was mirror-like. The morning we set off on our crossing the skies were still blue but the wind was beginning to blow- not too strongly but enough to make the trip a bit lumpy and for spray to be thrown up.
On the whole it was pleasant enough- much more so than on our way south.  The channel is marked by very few markers and they are far apart and difficult to spot. I am never comfortable on large expanses of water so I was happy when, with a little help from the ipad and GPS we spotted the entrance to the Canal de Rhone a Sete.
This end of the etang near Sete has new developments of apartments along the headland separating the lagoon and the Mediterranean. On entering the canal however, original fisherman's cottages still line the banks. Hopefully these simple homes will remain for many years to come.

The End of the Midi

Beziers from the aqueduct over the River Orb

After the excitement of Fonserannes locks we initially planned to stop in Beziers for a few days. 'Stay until next week,' we were encouraged repeatedly. 'For the Feria'  (the festival of the bulls). Since bullfighting has been banned in some parts of Spain the event in Beziers has become even more popular with up to a million people crowding into the city for a week each August. The streets are jam packed every night with competing styles of music and dancing, fireworks, light shows and horse riders. All very noisy, spectacular and enjoyable we were assured. The event does centre around bull fighting however, which remains well supported in this area of France.Whilst we have never been to a bull fight (nor would we go) we have seen bull running in small towns. The young bulls weren't injured but they were teased and seemed very confused and frightened.

The old city (which we'd explored previously and is certainly worth looking around) is a long, uphill walk along very busy roads. The prospect of doing that every evening to join the massive crowds wasn't overly appealing nor was waiting around in the port for a week in the extremely hot and windy conditions. We decided we would give the Feria a miss.
We can recommend the new boutique brewery beside the port though. La Gorge Fraiche - a brave venture in a major wine producing area = brews and sells very good beer. It is located in the old sugar mill; one of the few original buildings in the area not threatened with demolition during the planned redevelopment around the old port i.e. apartments and concrete.

From Beziers to the end of the Midi (or should that be the beginning?) the canal closely follows the Mediterranean coast. No more than a bike ride away, should you be able to find a place to stop.

Busy Portiragnes Plage on the Mediterranean - a 5km bike ride through salt marsh tracks from the canal. I got lost on the way back. The beach was not really worth the effort to be honest.

There are still many hire boaters on this stretch for whom the scenery might be a bit disappointing. No views at all, no remaining plane trees and no replanting until after the second last lock of the canal -round lock at Agde.

Agde round lock. It has 3 sets of gates. We were the only boat this overcast day. 

But then the canal banks flatten out and the vista opens up over the beautiful etang de Thau. When we passed this way 5 years ago these final few kilometres were blighted by abandoned, sinking wrecks and shabby, unregulated liveaboard boats. These have now been cleared away. Any remaining vessels have permits and proper moorings. And what a difference this makes. Instead of the eye been drawn to the banks lined with sad, uncared for boats we look up and out over the beautiful wide and wild lake.

Leaving the Midi. Out onto the etang de Thau

And so, au revoir Canal du Midi; out past the lighthouse and on towards Marseillian - one of our favourite ports.

Approaching Marseillian

Marseillian

Detour to Narbonne

'Roman Bridge' Narbonne

Before we say goodbye to the canal du Midi I need to backtrack a little- almost to Le Someil (the photogenic village with the antiquarian book shop and the narrow arched bridge). A couple of km from the village we turn off onto the Port Nouvelle Junction and descend 8 locks in 5 km onto the River Aude - the river which flooded last year causing such destruction and deaths. This year the Aude is shallow and care has to be taken to keep carefully to the required course to avoid running aground. After 600m we leave the river and enter the Canal de la Robine which leads to the city of Narbonne and then on to Port Nouvelle on the Mediterranean.

Umbrella pines at junction leading to Canal du Robine  and Narbonne

Being in a hurry on our way south in 2015 we had ignored this canal but as it's unlikely we'll be back this way again by boat we decided to make the detour. And we are happy that we did. Narbonne is certainly worth a visit.
There is some disagreement as to the lowest bridge on the Midi. Capestang is usually the one everyone worries about. It is certainly low and, at the same time, like many bridges, at a slightly awkward angle but I think that Carcassonne is lower. Much depends on fluctuating water levels though. As I've previously mentioned we removed our windscreens and lowered our nav frame in order to safely fit under the Midi stone bridges and we expected the Robine bridges to be the same. Little did we know that the water level had been raised by 10cm.

Duck!

Exiting a lock through a little arched bridge we came to a grinding, juddering almost halt half-way through. One of the mounts on top of the nav frame was jamming on the roof. There was nothing for it but for me to hang off the frame as if it were a monkey bar and just keep on scraping through whilst gouging a furrow in the 250 year old limestone (we weren't the first to be caught out - the evidence was clearly to be seen).
Once through we lowered the nav frame further which was just as well as once you reach Narbonne there is an even lower bridge - the medieval "Roman Bridge" which has a complete street of shops and houses on top of it.

The back of the 'Roman Bridge" leading into the port

Narbonne was once the major sea port between Spain and Italy but by the Middle Ages the sea had retreated. The port (Port Nouvelle) is another 20km further down the canal. This section, we were informed, was too shallow for us to navigate which disappointed one of us.

In the last lock into Narbonne

-and out

The port is situated right beside the historic centre dominated by the huge 12th-14th century Bishop's Palace and below the wonderful covered market. Our only quibble was the incessant music blasting through loudspeakers situated all along the quayside and throughout the narrow medieval streets. In the evenings this was replace by assorted (and better) live music from outside the restaurants, bars and the night market. A lively city.

the port 

Via Domitia - Roman road excavated in the centre of Narbonne. Looks difficult to walk on.

Horreum, Narbonne. Roman tunnels possibly used for grain storage.

Cathedral Saint Juste and Saint Pasteur

Bishops Palace/ Hotel de Ville Narbonne

Cathedral cloisters