Downhill on the Nivernais

The past week has been just about perfect. After spending a recovery day at Baye on the summit of the Nivernais we set off on the descent.

First downhill lock at Baye

Locking downhill is so much more relaxing. No hauling on ropes or turbulence. Just in you go and gently float down in the watery lift. The only thing to watch out for is that you don't become so relaxed that you fail to notice that your rope has become jammed in the stonework - then things might go badly very quickly. A rare occurence, perhaps, but it happened to us once last year which is why we always have a knife on hand to cut the rope in an emergency.

The canal is still very shallow in places so I've taken my chair (and parasol) up to the bow which, being away from the engine, is a peaceful spot from which to view the countryside. Very beautiful countryside it is too. Rolling farmland of cornfields, hay bales and grazing herds of the white Charolais cattle, the occasional quiet village and, every so often, a glimpse through the trees of the turrets of a chateau.

Bid for freedom - Charolais bullock going for a stroll along the tow path

Just another chateau

Nivernais village of Bazolles

Here and there the canal banks have been left unmown and look to have been planted with a mixture of wildflowers which, apart from looking beautiful provides a habitat for masses of butterflies, bees and gorgeous electric blue dragonflies. (Although Rob may not feel quite so enthusiastic about the bees as he was stung on the lip by one yesterday). Herons tag along with us and yesterday we also saw a stork.

Before the bee sting

What we are not seeing are many other boats. There was a hire boat base at Chatillon en Bazois but they mostly seem to travel the other way which makes life much more peaceful for us. Yesterday we met only one other boat all day.

Chatillon en Bazois

Today we are having another rest day at Cercy La Tour. At least I'm resting while the deck's being repainted (the engineer having been transferred to deck duties for the day).  There is, amazingly, an Orange hotspot at the campsite over the river and as my month's subscription is up tomorrow I'm making the most of it. The town has also provided free mooring with free water and elctricity which is most kind of them. The 'tour' bit refers to the remains of a 13th century chateau tower which I haven't seen yet but must surely pale into insignificance in comparison with the enormous white marble Madonna looming over the town. She is, apparently, illuminated at night though, disappointingly, not a miraculous occurrence - just plain, ordinary lights.
Will try and add a photo later. My card reader on the computer has given up the ghost...

Thefortified  village is, in fact, very nice. The 13th century walls have been partially recnstructed but they were unable to use the original stone as it had been nicked to build houses. Notre Dame du Nivernais has a great view of the surrounding area.