From the moment you leave Auxerre you realise things are going to be a little different. Approaching the first arched bridge we glided to a panicked halt (a contradiction I know but it just means the panic lasts lomger) when we realised that lowering the nav frame wouldn't be sufficient to get through. We would also have to pull down the canvas canopy - and don't forget the flag pole! So, a few minutes dizzying around mid river and entertaining the locals. Immediately through the bridge we entered the first lock of the Nivernais. Nice locks, keepered, worked manually and you need to get off and help. There is no commercial traffic on the Nivernais which is perhaps one reason why it has become a hugely popular tourist waterway. The other reason is that it is very pretty. So, lots of hire boats which, with all their rubber fenders, resemble dodgem cars (thanks Libby) and are occasionally driven in a similar fashion. Sharing the locks has been an interesting experience (I even met a teacher from my primary school in Scotland) but we're ever wary of feelings of superiority as they often precede some disaster. I suppose this is the way that commercial bargees have felt as they looked at us over the past months - exasperation tempered by mild amusement.
Many of the locks are operated by students as a not overly taxing holiday job.These are sometimes beautifully turned out young women. Where else in the world would you have lock keepers who look like they should be starring in a photo shoot for a glossy magazine? Are they so glamorous because they know they are going to be in hundreds of tourists' photos and maybe one of the photograhers might be someone famous or is it just because they are French and therefore chic? Probably the latter.
A few pics from the Nivernais so far......
 |
| Vermenton | | | | | |
 |
| A typical Nivernais bridge |
 |
| Misty morning on the Nivernais |
 |
| Hire boat negotiating bridge |
 |
Le Saussois - peregrine falcons here
Sunset on the Nivernais |
No comments:
Post a Comment