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Old electric tug which once pulled peniches through the Pouilly Tunnel |
Much has been written about the
Pouilly Tunnel. Boaters endlessly discuss its dimensions and those who have already traversed its 3.33km sagely advise others on technique with the result that worriers (like me) imagine all manner of disaster and become generally tedious company.
We've been through a fair number of canal tunnels and they all vary. Different lengths, heights, shapes; fancy lighting, no lighting; towpath, no towpath; ghosts....To be honest I haven't actually met any ghosts but if there are any to be found then the cold, dark, stalactite encrusted Pouilly Tunnel might be the place.
Construction of the Canal de Bourgogne was begun in 1775 and of course, at that time, all the work needed to be done by hand. Progress was further slowed by the turmoil caused by the Revolution and the tunnel joining the 2 sections of the canal wasn't completed until 1832. I read that English prisoners of the Napoleonic Wars were employed to dig out the tunnel, being kept underground for the whole period with their food lowered to them via shafts. They were promised release on completion of the tunnel but few survived and many are supposed to lie entombed behind the walls. This information was prefaced by the words 'it is said' and I couldn't find independent verification of the story (but I haven't had much time to research) so I hope it isn't true.
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Lock Cottage near summit decorated with tools |
Traffic through the tunnel is one way which is as normal but we also had to get a written pass and VHF radio from the lock keeper which is not. We were also given a set of instructions; wear lifejackets, use a spotlight (the keeper checked this worked), turn off the gas etc. All as per usual except for the lifejackets. We were to wait for the trip boat to come through from the other direction and then we were number 2 of 3 boats making the trip that morning. This instruction was immediately ignored by boat number 3 who made a quick dash for first place!
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Pouilly Tunnel Approaches |
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Pouilly Tunnel entrance. Looks like plenty of room. |
As mentioned in a previous post we had made our boat profile as small as possible in order to fit through the smaller than usual tunnel. After the longish approach through the narrow cut the tunnel entrance seems surprisingly spacious -for a few metres. Then, all of a sudden, the walls close in!
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Hope we fit! Sudden decrease in headroom. |
We have sufficient room though as long as the skipper can drive in a straight line for about 45 minutes which he does by following the guide line of the power cable in the middle of the roof very close to his head.
This cable powers the fluorescent lights which work well in some sections and not at all in others. Plunged into darkness (apart from the faint light of the lead boat) we are given some inkling of what it must have been like pre electricity and we're very glad of our spotlight.
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Lights |
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No Lights |
Now, there is one tunnel hazard which I have never seen mentioned and so here's my contribution to the list of things my fellow neurotics need to worry about. Every so often there is a largish metal bracket dead centre on the roof containing, I presume, the cctv camera tracking your progress. If you are standing on a high deck, as we were, and you are tall you had better beware. Mind your head!
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Safely Through |
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