tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-13366280877863552872024-02-20T23:10:57.072+00:00L'Avenir - cruising Europe's inland waterwaysexploring the canals and rivers of France, Belgium and Holland by boatCatriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.comBlogger236125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-38326997020804651712023-03-06T01:17:00.002+00:002023-03-06T01:56:30.165+00:00Back Onboard - Again<p> <i>'Wednesday 22nd June 2022 St Jean de Losne, Bourgogne</i></p><p><i>At last! We are here once again. 2 years and 8 months since we left. It's been a hard couple of years for all of us but I don't want to think about that at the moment. This is about being back on our boat. Back to life...'</i></p><p>We decided to splash out and take a taxi from Dijon to St Jean which brightened the day of the lead driver on the rank outside the station; cue lots of backslapping, high fives and laughter with the other 2 drivers. As we'd asked for an estimate first I did wonder if we'd agreed to something outrageous but 70 euros seemed fair enough. Maybe we were just getting his day off to a good start. </p><p>First up, though, we headed to the Free shop in Dijon to get ourselves a phone sim. We'd used Free previously as they offered a really generous internet allowance. Very easy to set up- you just buy a sim through one of their automatic dispensers. Not quite so easy (but not impossible) to completely cancel the service at the end though.</p><p>We arrived at H2o's marina about 11am on a perfect sunny morning. The taxi dropped us off outside the Capitainerie from where we could see our much missed l'Avenir looking, from a distance of about 50m, much as we left her. </p><p>Such a happy moment and this image still comes to mind all this time later.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiGqy4ifRD4fDt1wv6SFsmsycLbMkdeu8EPrxqTgmdLKwhppgiGa9zntSfnz3lAWjxh80KL_SBIjzYz5csH6NMkLYskwh2YZXTzv_SLHxtF1xoGzdL3S_NxmJLG9NF0scryE_Aex1-flXLbEGX81f2dO2bGmiAhwx7VDw5EYq3ojrLoQQ1zjMdLtnVxQ/s2374/20220622_115150.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2058" data-original-width="2374" height="383" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiGqy4ifRD4fDt1wv6SFsmsycLbMkdeu8EPrxqTgmdLKwhppgiGa9zntSfnz3lAWjxh80KL_SBIjzYz5csH6NMkLYskwh2YZXTzv_SLHxtF1xoGzdL3S_NxmJLG9NF0scryE_Aex1-flXLbEGX81f2dO2bGmiAhwx7VDw5EYq3ojrLoQQ1zjMdLtnVxQ/w443-h383/20220622_115150.jpg" width="443" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'Avenir waiting patiently for us</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-29873047460391250212023-02-09T04:27:00.001+00:002023-02-09T04:37:11.301+00:00Don't Panic- June 2022, Dijon<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="2551" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzVLBdycbBUhYp9dVrk5nxFs9Im4IYdhUG_3u5cFlYPTpkz97SPaSkRhJqWNWAWRditDG4d4EChKotEi4Znn7EuWvQdsI7JWrEupylg5oJk8HbSy9l1EMZ4VyVQcsCp5riQ-cT2QAuSWNFMquYgNJySun3oma4h1AwyHqZzfo7Icym6nJg0939covZyQ/w651-h404/493.JPG" width="651" /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Once again I'm writing this blog months after events. We are now back home in Australia. For various reasons I couldn't summon up the necessary energy to write a blog 'in real time' but I did keep a diary which I'll use as an 'aide memoire' and some of what I'll write will just be the diary transcribed.<p>We spent an excellent couple of weeks in Scotland visiting family before continuing to France. Covid and Brexit have both affected travel in negative ways. Everything is just 'more' although I suppose we should just be grateful we can do so at all. It's not so long ago that we weren't able to move more than 5km from our homes.</p><p><i>'Tuesday 21st June 2022 Dijon</i></p><div style="text-align: left;"><i> Had a near panic attack at Charles de Gaulle airport.</i><i> Message 'access refuséé' flashed up on the electronic passport reader. An immigration official instantly materialised at my side. 'That's not good, ' he said sadly. A pause and then 'The Shrug'.'</i></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">'The Shrug' is a bad sign. It usually means there is nothing more to be done. Nothing good at any rate. Being in receipt of a shrug at the bank, or the phone shop, or lost luggage, for example, means end of discussion, full stop, now just go away. However, should the shrug come from the hefty shoulders of a representative of officialdom such as a police officer (or immigration official) the next words may very well be, 'Follow me.' I speak from experience. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">A couple of years ago I inadvertently left a small backpack on a train as we disembarked laden with luggage at Dijon en route to l'Avenir. I realised about 15 minutes later and, leaving our bags in the waiting room under the watchful eye of Rob, (signs everywhere about leaving unattended bags) I went racing back to the platform hoping against hope that the train would still be there. French trains are usually pretty punctual so I was surprised to find it hadn't yet departed. </div><div style="text-align: left;">The platform was crowded with people and luggage making it difficult to hurry my way to the front carriage where we'd been sitting. It didn't occur to me to wonder why there were so many people on the platform until I went to step on board. The carriage was completely empty of passengers. It did, however, contain several gendarmes and, more alarmingly, rifle bearing soldiers preventing anyone boarding - and guarding my bag. The penny dropped. Everyone had been evacuated from the train.</div><div style="text-align: left;">'Mon sac,' I said pointing a trembling finger. Hostile eyes swivelled towards me. A stony-faced gendarme stepped forward. 'Je suis desolée. I'm so sorry,' I mumbled over and over. He just glared at me, slowly shook his head, shrugged and turned on his heel.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> 'Follow me.' We stepped off the train and into the crowd.</div><div style="text-align: left;">He wanted to see my ID. Who was I? Where was I going? Why was I here? I could hardly tell him my passport was in yet another bag which I'd abandoned in the waiting room (hopefully not unattended). Instead I pulled a crumpled train booking from my pocket which did at least contain my name. I then made the emergency decision to play the clueless tourist. The tourist, moreover, who doesn't speak or understand the local language much beyond beyond 'I'm sorry, I don't understand.' (Apologies to Sylviane, my lovely French teacher of some years).</div><div style="text-align: left;">I was lucky. I know because I was informed of my good fortune at some length. Lucky I was just an idiotic tourist. Lucky I'd owned up to leaving the offending bag. Lucky it didn't contain anything dangerous. Lucky I'd arrived before the bomb squad (gulp!). Lucky not to be charged with delaying a train and hundreds of passengers, all of whom were now glaring at me. There was a minute or so of discussion with his colleagues before he turned to me and once again shook his head. Then, there it was - 'The Shrug'. This time with added upturned hands. A curt nod toward the exit. I was dismissed.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">All this flashed through my mind as I stood with Monsieur Immigration. Maybe there had been a report written. Of course there would have been. French officialdom is famed for its bureaucracy isn't it? Maybe there had been passenger complaints, compensation claims for the delayed train, missed meetings. The incident would have been on the station cameras. Maybe my passport photo had triggered an alert. </div><div style="text-align: left;">Monsieur Immigration took my passport; looked carefully through it and at me. Then he replaced it in the machine a couple of times and -wonder of wonders- it worked! The barrier opened and I was through. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">And it was to Dijon station we were travelling once again. We caught the train from the Gare de Lyon and managed the journey successfully without misplacing our belongings or alerting any of the emergency services. We were to stay one night before making an early start for St Jean de Losne the next morning.</div><div style="text-align: left;"> As we walked into the city centre that evening, for dinner, we passed a long line of police vans. There were large crowds milling around the Porte Guillaume and down the main street. Our first thoughts were that it was some sort of protest but as we drew closer, we could see a stage set up and we realised that, by happy chance, we'd arrived in Dijon on the night of the summer solstice: the night that towns and villages all over France celebrate La Fête de la Musique. We dined and then strolled around the ancient, lovely streets where every laneway had a different performer: singers, bands, drummers, DJs, musicians of every genre. It was great - until the heavens decided to put on a display as well. The skies blackened, lightning flashed, thunder boomed and the rain poured. By the time we made it back to our hotel we were drenched to the skin.</div><div style="text-align: left;">FYI hotel hairdryers are useless for drying clothes. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA5dOdxiVQLphbFDclX3jQQFMfEZ4AZNy1Nx4KGVR6shBrok9hrnr7r3e7PWisTBTMkAXcpxY1CfeSvhzx5NjUhryKl8yBhNIkNGfePPKSRZJ4WXpzb6itouhgC0f89JivIp0OyFF-0QyYLDlr-iGPib1lM3WfhYLj-9fotEDaRMkymIJCvv3uS1oLag/s3629/20220621_221157.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2722" data-original-width="3629" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA5dOdxiVQLphbFDclX3jQQFMfEZ4AZNy1Nx4KGVR6shBrok9hrnr7r3e7PWisTBTMkAXcpxY1CfeSvhzx5NjUhryKl8yBhNIkNGfePPKSRZJ4WXpzb6itouhgC0f89JivIp0OyFF-0QyYLDlr-iGPib1lM3WfhYLj-9fotEDaRMkymIJCvv3uS1oLag/s320/20220621_221157.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fête de la Musique Dijon<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpZXXTMmGBUMNnrFrkANp_Ml4UOt-afyKm2JPeZwtT25G1Z03dRXk3hgtxO1qsWQ2zL4pBfLaR37Y_I1V-7hIwMPfktT4yaIW4AAuZdxLcUn8O-kRELik7tYogkEnD08_jCpqd-DNqRxE5vi3m6nYAAT4ER6p3_pMBWaXVMBeLJnMlTHOmeLxhIpDSg/s3941/20220621_220258.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3941" data-original-width="2218" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpZXXTMmGBUMNnrFrkANp_Ml4UOt-afyKm2JPeZwtT25G1Z03dRXk3hgtxO1qsWQ2zL4pBfLaR37Y_I1V-7hIwMPfktT4yaIW4AAuZdxLcUn8O-kRELik7tYogkEnD08_jCpqd-DNqRxE5vi3m6nYAAT4ER6p3_pMBWaXVMBeLJnMlTHOmeLxhIpDSg/s320/20220621_220258.jpg" width="180" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div>Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-23387747044133917312020-07-10T14:53:00.017+01:002020-09-02T07:01:42.018+01:00The End - Rhone and Saone. August/Sept 2019<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QUkEYfJnDkU/XwhvWhF_bVI/AAAAAAAAHw8/8LD1T5vPj547NRQ9ue-qHp0Xu3hRITbqgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190827_214756.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QUkEYfJnDkU/XwhvWhF_bVI/AAAAAAAAHw8/8LD1T5vPj547NRQ9ue-qHp0Xu3hRITbqgCPcBGAsYHg/w640-h480/IMG_20190827_214756.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lyon - port, Confluence<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div>I'm writing this almost a year later from lockdown in Australia. Looking back at my diaries and photos from last summer's cruising should be cheering but it's not really. With our borders closed to international (and even internal) travel there is no chance of us rejoining l'Avenir this year. This will be our first full winter in cold, damp Melbourne since 2007 but we are hopeful for next year. <div>So, I've decided to wrap up the blog for the moment. I hope every one of you stays well; those of you who manage to go cruising this summer, have wonderful adventures and those of you who don't, keep dreaming.</div><div><br /></div><div>After leaving Valence it was only a couple of days to lovely Lyon, stopping on the way at Andancette and the good little port of Condrieu sur Roches. The town of Vienne looked interesting in passing but not a comfortable place to stop overnight. There are concrete wharves on both banks and as the river is quite busy here (one of the cruise ship stops) the water sloshes back and forth washing machine-like. A yacht travelling towards us downstream bucked and plunged through the lumpy waters almost as if at sea. 2 bikini clad women lounged completely unconcerned on the foredeck. Meanwhile, I was tightly clutching the handrail which fully encloses our stern deck; I could barely let go long enough to wave. I will never make a sailor.</div><div>And so we said goodbye to the beautiful Rhone. Through the final lock (on our own!) where 2 young students took our details and 'signed us off'. The river authority keeps track of all passages through locks so they know who is travelling. The Rhone, of course, doesn't end at Lyon - it converges with the Saone which is the navigable route north.</div><div>I love everything about Lyon. The passage through the city is quite dramatic from the striking, colourful modern buildings at the confluence through the winding channel and beneath the bridges connecting the old town and the newer city.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjLprLcIJiEdcBqGVnqrreW4wwHxWSVoWI0r3w1WCmOLsZSDd9v-woUE3nJrXEFUbzvyVdUu4Z5sxUeKbM7w1appbfcwjjnSsiu2jv0W_WH_-lr7c6RHL0rCadrjWwNvd6IG3XoHn8ZPm/s4032/IMG_20190826_123732.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjjLprLcIJiEdcBqGVnqrreW4wwHxWSVoWI0r3w1WCmOLsZSDd9v-woUE3nJrXEFUbzvyVdUu4Z5sxUeKbM7w1appbfcwjjnSsiu2jv0W_WH_-lr7c6RHL0rCadrjWwNvd6IG3XoHn8ZPm/w500-h375/IMG_20190826_123732.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yRDYWxHp4Cs/Xwhx-diTKII/AAAAAAAAHxI/ABXVaWS8uigx0-cThKm9EzUOu9xixBigQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190826_123841.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yRDYWxHp4Cs/Xwhx-diTKII/AAAAAAAAHxI/ABXVaWS8uigx0-cThKm9EzUOu9xixBigQCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190826_123841.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RZ1aW03oXR8/Xwhx-a1qaZI/AAAAAAAAHxI/QnSQh_5bPeE-esxvneZ9gnOFOa4nJvOcgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190826_124250.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RZ1aW03oXR8/Xwhx-a1qaZI/AAAAAAAAHxI/QnSQh_5bPeE-esxvneZ9gnOFOa4nJvOcgCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190826_124250.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I453X8-_REI/Xwhx-SwnXRI/AAAAAAAAHxI/zyQm7cDZ4pQaRJD_B68CHkXR1YFXY_xzwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190826_124602.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I453X8-_REI/Xwhx-SwnXRI/AAAAAAAAHxI/zyQm7cDZ4pQaRJD_B68CHkXR1YFXY_xzwCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190826_124602.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We hadn't booked a berth at the port but were confident that if we didn't find a place we could stop on the river on one of the town wharves. As it happened, the port was virtually empty. The capitaine (a different and much friendlier one than on our previous visit) came out to help us tie up. There is still a 4 day limit but there would have been no problem extending had we wished to. Only 2 other boats came in during that time.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQAxSzIwVIs/XwhymgPD4CI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/fTQ5lWBQylQ9Lqn9RoeBf3Tq_h7TTY_KgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190827_175540.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YQAxSzIwVIs/XwhymgPD4CI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/fTQ5lWBQylQ9Lqn9RoeBf3Tq_h7TTY_KgCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190827_175540.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hC4mUjjKXpc/Xwhymtl62NI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/WLnpeyfl-ZYMoiqDo8J4GYDMHTRGxBN6wCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190827_174436.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hC4mUjjKXpc/Xwhymtl62NI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/WLnpeyfl-ZYMoiqDo8J4GYDMHTRGxBN6wCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190827_174436.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yQEvnPHL6ho/XwhymvNhe-I/AAAAAAAAHxQ/pIifTbthb7QUUc6ftrYVH_cv0L7K0_FDgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190827_163647.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yQEvnPHL6ho/XwhymvNhe-I/AAAAAAAAHxQ/pIifTbthb7QUUc6ftrYVH_cv0L7K0_FDgCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190827_163647.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJNZ03QtnSQ/XwhymmtrNII/AAAAAAAAHxQ/NiibdoNzGgYUFDX5L0DkhVUZjnc3t0RMwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190827_162924.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJNZ03QtnSQ/XwhymmtrNII/AAAAAAAAHxQ/NiibdoNzGgYUFDX5L0DkhVUZjnc3t0RMwCPcBGAsYHg/w500-h375/IMG_20190827_162924.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iPWJaaujCQE/XwhymvZCYwI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/ge6ye7ozy5IRI7mu38Cnw2QoAXPxSMLewCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190827_161358.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="500" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iPWJaaujCQE/XwhymvZCYwI/AAAAAAAAHxQ/ge6ye7ozy5IRI7mu38Cnw2QoAXPxSMLewCPcBGAsYHg/w375-h500/IMG_20190827_161358.jpg" width="375" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>We had visited many of the tourist sites on our journey south but that was no reason not to pay them another. The little Vaporetto navette still runs from the port every hour and and is the most convenient and scenic way to reach the city centre and lovely, old town. The other 'quaint' mode of transport, the funicular railway, is a fun and easy way reach the impressive Basilica de Notre Dame de Fourvière and, if you are lucky with the weather, enjoy an amazing view over Lyon.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gsVkvkDrhkE/X08nZ--fiyI/AAAAAAAAIB8/NvdiMNV3uSolk9mj-_xvr5gL72aFJ0v-ACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190829_113419.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gsVkvkDrhkE/X08nZ--fiyI/AAAAAAAAIB8/NvdiMNV3uSolk9mj-_xvr5gL72aFJ0v-ACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190829_113419.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Pusher tug and barge passing through Lyon</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMuJpuoYFIo/X08nZ4O61kI/AAAAAAAAIB8/oCSq5k4OE4QVqzhHZLv_gtgyC7y3C9jrACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190829_113406.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OMuJpuoYFIo/X08nZ4O61kI/AAAAAAAAIB8/oCSq5k4OE4QVqzhHZLv_gtgyC7y3C9jrACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190829_113406.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">More Commercial traffic - sand barge in Lyon</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBFyfOSP79zSfAUB0C8mt4ehaOTlz4aX34C0plpmp-fe4hSZJZ2HfvN1hgY5Er87gt-WQReQZMSr5b1793gJiwWZ6sV1htusLJSnovlLQtZI-NfCduptisPnWhUzbxve1w3bvJVrLqmEkH/s4032/IMG_20190829_113646.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBFyfOSP79zSfAUB0C8mt4ehaOTlz4aX34C0plpmp-fe4hSZJZ2HfvN1hgY5Er87gt-WQReQZMSr5b1793gJiwWZ6sV1htusLJSnovlLQtZI-NfCduptisPnWhUzbxve1w3bvJVrLqmEkH/s640/IMG_20190829_113646.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">Saone quayside, Lyon</span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h5Okwrz39x4/X08nZyX9tEI/AAAAAAAAIB8/dF3w-F-5LxkldlG6BNnJtjOUDPdIy_KLwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190829_120735.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h5Okwrz39x4/X08nZyX9tEI/AAAAAAAAIB8/dF3w-F-5LxkldlG6BNnJtjOUDPdIy_KLwCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190829_120735.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: medium;">L'Île Barbe, Lyon.</span> <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>The River Saone has an altogether more relaxed feel than the Rhone and it's not just down to the slower pace. The commercial traffic is mainly cruise ships and hotel boats, the bulk of the other large commercials terminating in Lyons. The locks are smaller and no longer part of the nuclear power generation system; not necessarily easier to negotiate mind you as there are no longer floating bollards. </div><div>The river winds through mainly rural scenery and small towns and villages whilst cattle take advantage of the low banks to wade into the shallows to cool off.</div><div>Most of our stops were the same as on our southern journey but they were all worth a second look. </div><div><br /></div><div>Some more pics added......</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbNxr0fYi6E/X08z1UD4AVI/AAAAAAAAICg/Fj1tZoNiFCkza18P8m0PfjevK1Z70aw-gCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190829_174936.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KbNxr0fYi6E/X08z1UD4AVI/AAAAAAAAICg/Fj1tZoNiFCkza18P8m0PfjevK1Z70aw-gCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190829_174936.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trevoux<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ow8tT6STqA/X08chQzkW7I/AAAAAAAAIBk/yBLTWu7wd5c5Lpc9FhjxtcYKAbA8ZH9qQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190901_160913.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ow8tT6STqA/X08chQzkW7I/AAAAAAAAIBk/yBLTWu7wd5c5Lpc9FhjxtcYKAbA8ZH9qQCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190901_160913.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Montmerle-sur-Saone<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fSuDgNfgOsk/X08chZRvnuI/AAAAAAAAIBk/VmFlMBhKgTQe8tHoYHNRtPK1UmuX6hhbACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190903_124425.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fSuDgNfgOsk/X08chZRvnuI/AAAAAAAAIBk/VmFlMBhKgTQe8tHoYHNRtPK1UmuX6hhbACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190903_124425.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruise ship at Macon<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zqKF77YGIlo/X08chYJSNnI/AAAAAAAAIBk/Nls6kh6ZY_Iuv3yU9OvOvUIVZPGtR2L2wCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190903_203400.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zqKF77YGIlo/X08chYJSNnI/AAAAAAAAIBk/Nls6kh6ZY_Iuv3yU9OvOvUIVZPGtR2L2wCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190903_203400.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pont Saint-Laurent, Macon<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eee2v3-hAhU/X08chS8pH2I/AAAAAAAAIBk/xmtFHshw7Z0o1u-iQEQUnG1Y6EFpfXvwACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190904_103540.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eee2v3-hAhU/X08chS8pH2I/AAAAAAAAIBk/xmtFHshw7Z0o1u-iQEQUnG1Y6EFpfXvwACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190904_103540.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Macon<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ka0g1l5zQR8/X08chYxo4PI/AAAAAAAAIBk/wMoX0vYA9Jgou7lolciv3l_WjhlcCoFDgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190904_104206.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ka0g1l5zQR8/X08chYxo4PI/AAAAAAAAIBk/wMoX0vYA9Jgou7lolciv3l_WjhlcCoFDgCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190904_104206.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eglise Saint Pierre, Macon - stained glass refections<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4jgwwgQV1BM/X08chVb8J7I/AAAAAAAAIBk/dkH6cztyFVY8E2It7rB_LEpZeEnYMj6XwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190904_105114.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4jgwwgQV1BM/X08chVb8J7I/AAAAAAAAIBk/dkH6cztyFVY8E2It7rB_LEpZeEnYMj6XwCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190904_105114.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eglise Saint Pierre, Macon<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ork9o9loesc/X08chXWU_AI/AAAAAAAAIBk/qu0wfoHWUeEtqAxW4RJLMnWHV5e0B8MZQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190904_110119.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ork9o9loesc/X08chXWU_AI/AAAAAAAAIBk/qu0wfoHWUeEtqAxW4RJLMnWHV5e0B8MZQCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190904_110119.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maison de Bois (wooden house) Macon's oldest building. Built 1490-1510<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-12ZZuPl_4J8/X08chW-ihvI/AAAAAAAAIBk/UIgRuTu_8C8R15BgMKHvxZdgjYyKlPPvwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190904_210302.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-12ZZuPl_4J8/X08chW-ihvI/AAAAAAAAIBk/UIgRuTu_8C8R15BgMKHvxZdgjYyKlPPvwCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190904_210302.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Macon - good free town mooring<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5PCg4sFpF2U/X08wVwbkQAI/AAAAAAAAICU/Ad-gXUiUuD8A67l3v4pa_X6s-dqqQm9eACPcBGAsYHg/s2694/IMG_20190831_154605.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2196" data-original-width="2694" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5PCg4sFpF2U/X08wVwbkQAI/AAAAAAAAICU/Ad-gXUiUuD8A67l3v4pa_X6s-dqqQm9eACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190831_154605.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d24FCta836A/X08chadgQ_I/AAAAAAAAIBk/BxxvfbmbGKgd7N_MR_IfE5DlHdciDbWrgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190905_141659.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d24FCta836A/X08chadgQ_I/AAAAAAAAIBk/BxxvfbmbGKgd7N_MR_IfE5DlHdciDbWrgCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190905_141659.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooling Off <br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lL5fSsr-7Eg/X08chVF8h8I/AAAAAAAAIBk/DSPuclMsi_QEQMCGLqFLAK46WdhiNJhlQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190907_111231.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lL5fSsr-7Eg/X08chVF8h8I/AAAAAAAAIBk/DSPuclMsi_QEQMCGLqFLAK46WdhiNJhlQCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190907_111231.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side trip along the lovely River Seille. Locks are self operated apart from the first.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LZL0e8hOx20/X08chfRxJdI/AAAAAAAAIBk/aMWdMl6SqTcdQbBaNgOL5hkRql28vhuxACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190907_193110.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LZL0e8hOx20/X08chfRxJdI/AAAAAAAAIBk/aMWdMl6SqTcdQbBaNgOL5hkRql28vhuxACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190907_193110.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Intrepid Paddler, Zsolt, catches up with us again at Tournus<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IU2tufn0YIU/X08rs7aLBOI/AAAAAAAAICI/0Qwq-l-LTGM-pfrWV2Vvq0dcidnxIlwtwCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190904_073412.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IU2tufn0YIU/X08rs7aLBOI/AAAAAAAAICI/0Qwq-l-LTGM-pfrWV2Vvq0dcidnxIlwtwCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190904_073412.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Haglv1MY2yQ/X08chfJwxvI/AAAAAAAAIBk/MMmbZh-1prcg0hBvFAk02f6WoM12lUDoQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190909_084326.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Haglv1MY2yQ/X08chfJwxvI/AAAAAAAAIBk/MMmbZh-1prcg0hBvFAk02f6WoM12lUDoQCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190909_084326.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Misty morning on the River Saone<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C3KvIrSbk8Q/X08chRnP6fI/AAAAAAAAIBk/9RKKMdILPZ0cFrHje1NqJAyknKTwSJGtgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190910_201836.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C3KvIrSbk8Q/X08chRnP6fI/AAAAAAAAIBk/9RKKMdILPZ0cFrHje1NqJAyknKTwSJGtgCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190910_201836.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy night at Tournus</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WJFqBZiwWVw/X08chZJCDmI/AAAAAAAAIBk/-uHC3HIMYzctIgyA-IDxU0lvCNOhjXf5wCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190913_101441.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WJFqBZiwWVw/X08chZJCDmI/AAAAAAAAIBk/-uHC3HIMYzctIgyA-IDxU0lvCNOhjXf5wCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190913_101441.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tournus<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lb4XaZVa-6g/X08chfCW3gI/AAAAAAAAIBk/jgIx4dNVJOEzkdhlcL8eihrI9xlVCWcFACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190913_171452.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lb4XaZVa-6g/X08chfCW3gI/AAAAAAAAIBk/jgIx4dNVJOEzkdhlcL8eihrI9xlVCWcFACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190913_171452.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chalon sur Saone<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ICQbR-RqyA/X08chaFLiTI/AAAAAAAAIBk/atjkOalnwAYqxqbP9P3ucUvp39om-6hGgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190914_093906.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ICQbR-RqyA/X08chaFLiTI/AAAAAAAAIBk/atjkOalnwAYqxqbP9P3ucUvp39om-6hGgCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190914_093906.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marina entrance Chalon sur Saone<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XMM7tLqlDjc/X08chZcqyXI/AAAAAAAAIBk/3uupro6pUPwFYD8nFmHU0JhHQhIJl4WCACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190913_171636.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XMM7tLqlDjc/X08chZcqyXI/AAAAAAAAIBk/3uupro6pUPwFYD8nFmHU0JhHQhIJl4WCACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190913_171636.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chalons-sur-Saone<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kyX39h-hayc/X08chdGZU9I/AAAAAAAAIBk/WSwdJTijmsw3INnvAhpy7JLq7k3askClgCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190915_135422.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kyX39h-hayc/X08chdGZU9I/AAAAAAAAIBk/WSwdJTijmsw3INnvAhpy7JLq7k3askClgCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190915_135422.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seurre<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GmLLpYBFGjQ/X08chZBKykI/AAAAAAAAIBk/ayuv1GTT8K4QXuxA7WZwIbCA2E4-WAVUQCPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190916_143345.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GmLLpYBFGjQ/X08chZBKykI/AAAAAAAAIBk/ayuv1GTT8K4QXuxA7WZwIbCA2E4-WAVUQCPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190916_143345.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Jean De Losne <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ITY8SNhOEgA/X08chddmuQI/AAAAAAAAIBk/ZpPTiGrzcOYC5wM0db_nWbvnFr1qfxS_ACPcBGAsYHg/s4032/IMG_20190918_142535.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ITY8SNhOEgA/X08chddmuQI/AAAAAAAAIBk/ZpPTiGrzcOYC5wM0db_nWbvnFr1qfxS_ACPcBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190918_142535.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching St Jean de Losne and the end of our voyage from the south of France.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPLABFbRlcW1howKO8c8D9UShn9RD8M4CtB-JAS1idrAfEtzf1k1GQKdTlQJaeyR5LPldyoQ-U8fyMEfkgDCpDA2yq9v_OhGaT0T1dc96O3YgBtzThDZHG1H7rh_EuPCag7rZoZrgqxrx/s4032/IMG_20190925_105939.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCPLABFbRlcW1howKO8c8D9UShn9RD8M4CtB-JAS1idrAfEtzf1k1GQKdTlQJaeyR5LPldyoQ-U8fyMEfkgDCpDA2yq9v_OhGaT0T1dc96O3YgBtzThDZHG1H7rh_EuPCag7rZoZrgqxrx/s640/IMG_20190925_105939.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Jean de Losne. 'Au revoir,' L'Avenir. Who knows when we'll see you again? Not 2020 that's for certain. Now hoping for 2021.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-23738391004280215002020-06-12T08:28:00.000+01:002020-06-12T08:30:07.394+01:00Anyone for a Paddle? August 2019<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HpzrEAB0dRQ/XuMsY_OcbGI/AAAAAAAAHnY/bMtok0cgdSkJ5v-IZZ6okeuZ8C249G_DACK4BGAsYHg/s5472/DSC00685.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HpzrEAB0dRQ/XuMsY_OcbGI/AAAAAAAAHnY/bMtok0cgdSkJ5v-IZZ6okeuZ8C249G_DACK4BGAsYHg/w640-h426/DSC00685.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Next stop was Valence. The marina itself is enormous; the largest river port in France, it has 450+ berths. A shortish hike away, through the 17 hectares of sporting ovals, is a Géant Casino hyperrmarket - a bit sad to get excited about a supermarket I know but there you go. The other main attractions at the port are a launderette and a restaurant. With all that excitement on offer we decided to stay 2 nights. <div>The restaurant specialises in fish, is quite pricey but the servings are huge. We shared a plate of the biggest oysters I have ever seen followed by a giant plate each of cabillaud (cod). cauliflower, carrots, zucchini and potatoes. Everything here seemed to be super sized - including, I was a bit horrified to discover on my plate, whelks. Hot this time. Against my better judgment, I was persuaded to give them another try. Never again.</div><div>Despite the port being large and fairly full there were only a couple of boats 'en voyage.' We were joined, on the second day, by Boschplaat, a barge owned by an English couple who live aboard year round and late in the day, a kayaker gave us a wave as he paddled his fully laden boat upstream.</div><div>The next morning we three boats met up at the lock. The kayaker asked if he could travel through the lock with us as he wasn't allowed to traverse them on his own and there were no facilities for him to retrieve and relaunch his boat to bypass the huge Rhone locks. We weren't sure if this was permitted so I called up the lock keepers on the VHF to make sure. However, the only response (the standard response) was that we were to wait at the pontoon until we got the green light to enter. He probably had no idea what I was talking about.</div><div>The kayaker, Zsolt, assured us he had permission from the Rhone authorities, so he came aboard l'Avenir and secured his kayak to our port side. Whilst we waited in the sunshine for the lock he told us a little of his impressive story.</div><div>Zsolt Bihari is a Hungarian who had been travelling solo and living on his kayak for 4 years. He began his journey in Budapest, paddling along the Danube, through the Black Sea, the Bosphorous and the Mediterranean and was now on his way upstream on the Rhone on his way home. <br /></div><div>The lock gates began to open, the green light came on, I went forward to my usual rope handling position at the bow, Rob started up the engine and Zsolt's amazing expedition almost came to an ignominious end. There was a lot of shouting and the engine was quickly turned off. The cooling water outlet from our engine is located on the port side and the little kayak had been tied up directly beneath it. Engine on, water spurting straight into the kayak. The men quickly moved the kayak further forward out of harm's way and we started up once again.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sogi_WrKF80/XuMtWIGYbPI/AAAAAAAAHns/Rn_4_s4jVKMf4jZ40l2PvOZt3Pr8F9u_ACK4BGAsYHg/s5472/DSC00677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="5472" data-original-width="3648" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sogi_WrKF80/XuMtWIGYbPI/AAAAAAAAHns/Rn_4_s4jVKMf4jZ40l2PvOZt3Pr8F9u_ACK4BGAsYHg/w266-h400/DSC00677.JPG" width="266" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>We passed through the lock without further incident and once we had cleared the approaches Zsolt clambered back into his (slightly soggy) kayak seat and waved us goodbye. We were to meet up with him a few times again. He seemed to make as much distance as we did each day, clearly with a lot more effort. I wondered how he could make headway when the current often was very strong and he told us that he if kept close to the bank he avoided the worst of it.</div><div><br /></div><div>Zsolt has a website if you wish to have a look at his travels.</div><div><div><a href="http://seakayakargo.com/hu/">http://seakayakargo.com/</a></div></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kvQzhdVmibU/XuMuDsNuJeI/AAAAAAAAHoE/eXE2asRHTpkh4BKorxWJ3q6ERJCAxPARgCK4BGAsYHg/s5472/DSC00673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3648" data-original-width="5472" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kvQzhdVmibU/XuMuDsNuJeI/AAAAAAAAHoE/eXE2asRHTpkh4BKorxWJ3q6ERJCAxPARgCK4BGAsYHg/s320/DSC00673.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CZdYlkd8So8/XuMuoWD_RhI/AAAAAAAAHog/RkfFTvVDSjsiCxNckwsu-mjJTWGYImGaACK4BGAsYHg/s3356/DSC00682%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2237" data-original-width="3356" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CZdYlkd8So8/XuMuoWD_RhI/AAAAAAAAHog/RkfFTvVDSjsiCxNckwsu-mjJTWGYImGaACK4BGAsYHg/s320/DSC00682%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><br /></div></div>Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-20843275574022484372020-05-04T05:40:00.000+01:002020-05-05T03:40:45.536+01:00Another Medieval Town - Cruas<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruas - frozen in time</td></tr>
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After 2 nights and a rather mediocre dinner at the cafe at Viviers port (memo to self: don't buy any more menu items called 'fish 'n chips'. In France anyway) we decided to move on.<br />
The first lock (Chateauneuf 19m deep) is just around the first bend. We were called straight in and on our own. That was about as good as it got for the day though. We travelled for about three and a half hours in very blowy conditions, with intermittent downpours and quite a strong current: so slow-going. I remembered this section from our trip south when we were caught in a bad thunderstorm and it was quite frightening.<br />
The river opens out into some very wide sections: lake-like and exposed. It would have been pleasant on a normal August day but what is normal these days? A couple of boats stormed past us at high speed really knocking us around. Enough we thought. We'll stop at Cruas.<br />
This port has a tricky entrance necessitating its own special blow-up section on the navigation chart. It's on a bend, there's a strong current across the entrance, shallows and underwater walls immediately downstream. We, of course, were faffing about at the last minute. The heavens opened - the windscreen wipers couldn't cope so we were quickly unfastening and lifting the canopy windscreen in order to see through the deluge and generally conversing in a less than calm manner. All the necessary ingredients for disaster. To my surprise and huge relief we slotted through the gap without mishap. The port captain, Pierre, was very welcoming, helping us tie up in the torrential rain. Exiting the port was easier than entering, he assured us. Basically, just aim for the marker, take a deep breath and go full steam ahead.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruas nuclear power plant - with backup wind turbine</td></tr>
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The port is right next to the Cruas nuclear power plant one of whose cooling towers has an ecologically themed mural of a child with a shell entitled 'Aquarius'. The commission for the mural went to Belgian artist, Jean-Marie Pierret. 9 mountaineers spent 8000 hours and used 4000 litres of paint producing the finished art work. 8000 hours...puts painting the kitchen into perspective.<br />
The village of Cruas was a real surprise. We'd heard nothing about it and only discovered its existence whilst on our usual foray for baguettes.<br />
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The port is about 20 minutes walk to the village which, like Viviers, is perched on the sides of a limestone crag. There's virtually no information about Cruas on the internet other than about the power station and the tourist office was closed so I can only tell you what we saw.<br />
The ancient town is slowly being restored, by the local community, from almost complete ruin. They seem to be working their way up from the bottom which is logical I suppose as the steep, narrow and winding streets wouldn't be the easiest to navigate with building materials at the best of times never mind in a state of disrepair. Some buildings appear finished and are lovely, many remain in various stages of ruin whilst others are works in progress - occasionally slightly weird ones<br />
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Someone on the restoration committee with an 'artisitic' bent and an eye on future young tourists has come up with a couple of ideas for the top of the town (I do hope they aren't working their way down). Near the summit, just below the abbey, is a recreation of a medieval village complete with medievally costumed 50s era shop mannequins and an assortment of plastic chooks, ducks goats and pigs. At the top of the hill, the castle tower, still under renovation, wasn't yet open to the public but the 3 elderly workmen chatting over cups of tea just inside the door kindly invited us to step inside and view the art works in progress - a collection of painted dragons, giants and medieval maids with oddly placed cut-outs for photographic opportunities.<br />
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We are in admiration of the townspeople undertaking the huge task of rebuilding and preserving their past. Good luck to them. The cruise ship trade will pass them by and make for Viviers but I recommend stopping here too. (And it <i>is</i> easier leaving port than arriving).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the port exit onto the Rhone, Cruas</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-59530464493288915422020-03-03T11:32:00.000+00:002020-05-05T03:40:45.672+01:00Viviers sur Rhone<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Our next port of call was to be Viviers in the Ardeche. When we travelled south a few years ago this port had been closed. It is now one of the major stops for the cruise ships so we were keen to see what was there.<br />
The day was, once again, windy and overcast which was a pity as this stretch eventually passes through the dramatic scenery of the Donzère Gorge. First though we said goodbye to the river itself and travelled 30km along a straight canalised section before negotiating the deepest (23m) lock of them all - the écluse Bollene.<br />
Entering this vast lock from downstream feels slightly intimidating. It is dark, dank, dripping and slimy and the sky is a long way off. This watery elevator needed to lift us the height of a 7 storey building. The upstream gates are unusual in that they are curved to better withstand the force of the river behind them. It doesn't do to think too much about all that water pressing against.<br />
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After the gates behind close there are a couple of minutes of stillness before the floating bollards begin their chorus of eerie moans and wails; a ghostly choir accompaniment. Not your usual lift music!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Floating bollard</td></tr>
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Once out of the lock and past the nuclear power station and the floodgates we rejoined the river as it narrows and enters the Donzère Gorge.<br />
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A statue of the archangel St Michel stands high on a hill on the right bank looking over towards the 100m high cliffs on the other side. The statue was erected by the community of Viviers in thanks for being spared from bombing during WW2.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Donzère Gorge. Statue of St Michel high on the top of the limestone crag</td></tr>
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The port de plaisance at Viviers is just off the main channel. We hadn't made a reservation but there were several free spots in the recently upgraded marina. There's a long quay along the river bank which was empty when we arrived. Not for long though - 2 large cruise ships followed us in, stayed for a few hours whilst their passengers went off for a bus tour of the Ardeche and then were swftly replaced by another 2 ships. Busy place.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Traffic jam at Viviers quay</td></tr>
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The medieval town is a short walk from the port. At least the lower part is; the bit with the shops and tradespeople. The ecclesiastical sector, of course, occupies the lofty heights with the best views. The 12th century cathedral, which dominates the town, is a steep hike up steps and winding cobbled streets. There has been a bishops' seat here since the 5th century but habitation predates that due to its strategic position high on a limestone crag overlooking the Rhone valley.<br />
Not many of the cruise ship passengers were in evidence in the town, possibly because it's an energetic climb. So it's not, as yet, over run with tourist shops. In fact I don't think there are any at all. The buildings are a mix of attractive renovated (or semi renovated) houses and many total ruins. From the ramparts around the small cathedral(the oldest there is an amazing view over the rooftops (or where the roofs would be if they still existed) out over the river. For a while I watched an ancient man working inside the remains of one building - only 4 walls still standing - lifting heavy stones and slowly moving them from one place to another. I wondered how long he'd been at it: had he been a young man when he began?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Look closely and you can see the old man at the bottom of the photo</td></tr>
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Viviers is most definitely worth a visit as is the surrounding region judging by the brochures given to me by the port captain. Too hilly for the bikes though (for me at least).<br />
Some views of and from the town.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Renaissance fresco on 16th century House of Chevaliers, Viviers</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-20957542182814408722020-02-28T08:43:00.000+00:002020-05-05T03:40:45.626+01:00'Montant s'il vous plait' - Rhone Locks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Now where were we? Ah yes, the Rhone.....</div>
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Sorry for the long delay in finishing the blog for the 2019 season. We did make it up the Rhone! I'll do my best to catch up before this year's trip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24fu4I1R0bX1W5WRNLMDo7bqkS3yX_GRNqsecntNfU8si71waj5ofHNNkXEQM-B0ldIJSNxJOfXoEJAYdTpStXU9ZN0IkMGLYF5f8JG6zsKlGLhNqGWKg3FqKQ8gxQ3jNJeHz9dzPeTc2/s1600/DSC00654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh24fu4I1R0bX1W5WRNLMDo7bqkS3yX_GRNqsecntNfU8si71waj5ofHNNkXEQM-B0ldIJSNxJOfXoEJAYdTpStXU9ZN0IkMGLYF5f8JG6zsKlGLhNqGWKg3FqKQ8gxQ3jNJeHz9dzPeTc2/s640/DSC00654.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chateau de l'Hers, Chateauneuf-du-Pape</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_1122843107"></span><span id="goog_1122843108"></span>Leaving Aramon we bypassed Avignon (sadly) and stopped over in the pretty village of St Etienne. There is a little pontoon which can accommodate 2 boats and we were very happy and relieved to find only one small boat on it as we had no back up plan.<br />
We stayed only one night in Saint Etienne. It was a Sunday so the sole restaurant was closed. The cafe was also closed for renovation and there was, unusually, no baker at all. The prospect of no baguette or croissants in the morning was cause for some consternation. I think we've been too long in France!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VVFvAVHEA0q1Yy2_5EAep6xY4nnJ4fyG3B9LzwmiboTbG5-VoMxl5hT4QSwaRLF5kBbw870h192rDyneRi75UHhsOtSJyjDzByhiYIf8akslI8q18rlww7gh41cw2tF2kRA0R7J9O3dt/s1600/IMG_20190818_161404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3VVFvAVHEA0q1Yy2_5EAep6xY4nnJ4fyG3B9LzwmiboTbG5-VoMxl5hT4QSwaRLF5kBbw870h192rDyneRi75UHhsOtSJyjDzByhiYIf8akslI8q18rlww7gh41cw2tF2kRA0R7J9O3dt/s640/IMG_20190818_161404.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saint Etienne-des-Sorts</td></tr>
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If you have no other option you can, with permission, overnight on the small waiting pontoons at the locks. We haven't needed to do that this year but on our southward trip we overnighted above the huge Bollene lock.<br />
The locks on the Rhone are enormous - art deco style Bollene is 23m deep - but they are relatively easy to navigate due to having floating bollards set into the walls as opposed to fixed bollards or cleats set at different heights.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxBEoXxKq5zgDg50LtyutiTcJN4J3UYISddvMmGxaQyJGD9nYQrslw3DaHPf608hix9SZCgJPqBw9VuX8ntHNE54nBQ2GXlk9NH6U6LVQeWgOcmLERVTaYlefvIcZD446vtrUZFWdFegdF/s1600/IMG_20190819_114425.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxBEoXxKq5zgDg50LtyutiTcJN4J3UYISddvMmGxaQyJGD9nYQrslw3DaHPf608hix9SZCgJPqBw9VuX8ntHNE54nBQ2GXlk9NH6U6LVQeWgOcmLERVTaYlefvIcZD446vtrUZFWdFegdF/s640/IMG_20190819_114425.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bollène Lock. Hydro-electric power station to left<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uf0RfSiN8ic/XljF3wM0jwI/AAAAAAAAHB4/Wm3eMV4AQtAB6boZIaRIRoMTJAwxPZW6ACKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190819_121915.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uf0RfSiN8ic/XljF3wM0jwI/AAAAAAAAHB4/Wm3eMV4AQtAB6boZIaRIRoMTJAwxPZW6ACKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190819_121915.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entering Bollène. We have the enormous lock to ourselves.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAcWxmm5y3249gQrmo9GTE5qNtznJt7CJszmgVzRhpj7zA-HGUtPcbrpE5Iuwl-ahyphenhyphenXjT8ChwXZ6xmUlqxCpwF8PfZr9W_8nm890-H74WZVMDmmUji9zNumkC9i7m8V2Xco7fGs8QNmssx/s1600/IMG_20190819_122439.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAcWxmm5y3249gQrmo9GTE5qNtznJt7CJszmgVzRhpj7zA-HGUtPcbrpE5Iuwl-ahyphenhyphenXjT8ChwXZ6xmUlqxCpwF8PfZr9W_8nm890-H74WZVMDmmUji9zNumkC9i7m8V2Xco7fGs8QNmssx/s640/IMG_20190819_122439.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Going up. Life jackets are compulsory.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h9N4iiPhlkk/XljGekZ544I/AAAAAAAAHCE/ox9_8vJPtlElkRNn4ssIOFWK_sNEQzM0gCKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190819_123334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h9N4iiPhlkk/XljGekZ544I/AAAAAAAAHCE/ox9_8vJPtlElkRNn4ssIOFWK_sNEQzM0gCKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190819_123334.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">-and exiting</td></tr>
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You must secure the boat to the bollard and then the bollard rises (or falls when descending) with each surge in the water level, requiring you only to keep a watch rather than trying to move ropes up and down. The process is quite noisy -musical even- as the bollards' moans and groans echo around the chamber. I have read it described as being like whale song but that's perhaps being a little heavy on poetic licence.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VUMDSlT_dgA/XljAATEMBUI/AAAAAAAAHBA/AIzbtaAA_6UtbwWPVjwwK3_k6Y-67Us6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/IMG_20190818_143033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VUMDSlT_dgA/XljAATEMBUI/AAAAAAAAHBA/AIzbtaAA_6UtbwWPVjwwK3_k6Y-67Us6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_20190818_143033.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting our turn at Caderouse Lock. Commercial traffic has priority. We follow him in.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WEvQXFazA5QZqXQeYVu2COvyG7gZmpHhEbmUllu4U4GNo2t7TyiyEXtGxuQ9GQG76wdrnFAb39d888oAZJ5rXWsFf3diAIgzW9MAPx7QrwUBLXHR4rtCYHx9hIDz0YlUGLJ5dAYzWVDj/s1600/IMG_20190818_144423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6WEvQXFazA5QZqXQeYVu2COvyG7gZmpHhEbmUllu4U4GNo2t7TyiyEXtGxuQ9GQG76wdrnFAb39d888oAZJ5rXWsFf3diAIgzW9MAPx7QrwUBLXHR4rtCYHx9hIDz0YlUGLJ5dAYzWVDj/s640/IMG_20190818_144423.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">-then ascending the lock secured to the floating bollard.</td></tr>
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There is a lock every 25km or so and they have hydro electric power stations alongside. The current at the approaches downstream of the lock varies and can be quite strong giving boats exiting and heading downstream an extra boost; as they zoom past their crews usually give us a cheery/sympathetic wave as we struggle upstream seeming to go nowhere. When we are within sight of the lock I call up on the VHF to announce ourselves and request passage; in this case 'montant' - going upstream. Going downsream would be 'avalant'. The lock keeper will usually acknowledge you (but not always) and tell you if you need to wait on the pontoon and for how long, or, if you're very lucky, that the lock will be ready for you. We've gone through entirely on our own and with barges. peniches and cruise ships. We had to wait over an hour on one occasion when 2 double barges with pusher tugs arrived one after the other. Each completely filled the 190m lock leaving no room for us.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ss-Co0Fs6oE/XljLmi4Fp3I/AAAAAAAAHCo/Z-kJNbyKolYAWdp1J5s_0OZhNYra65KZQCKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190825_102535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ss-Co0Fs6oE/XljLmi4Fp3I/AAAAAAAAHCo/Z-kJNbyKolYAWdp1J5s_0OZhNYra65KZQCKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190825_102535.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waiting pontoon - Rhone lock</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_CmquxW3Lk/XljMlZcXxLI/AAAAAAAAHCw/c_Y2JPXbvMca_uJswHZW9NSUKaafH2HkACKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190821_110708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m_CmquxW3Lk/XljMlZcXxLI/AAAAAAAAHCw/c_Y2JPXbvMca_uJswHZW9NSUKaafH2HkACKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190821_110708.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No room to share with this ship</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JnMMKIwMnJM/XljNvrn1EqI/AAAAAAAAHDA/I4ZT-NKM9Rga3JqlcpICUe7TirHEFLvIgCKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190825_103453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JnMMKIwMnJM/XljNvrn1EqI/AAAAAAAAHDA/I4ZT-NKM9Rga3JqlcpICUe7TirHEFLvIgCKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190825_103453.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">-or this one</td></tr>
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<br />
We have also shared a lock with a kayak. About which more later.<br />
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-5975355650522136742019-09-24T20:24:00.000+01:002020-05-05T03:40:45.717+01:00Against the Flow. Saint Gilles - Aramon<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t8ptJ5af_P0/XYd85nUUudI/AAAAAAAAGgo/wWPG32zkTPQmdFJ7pQ-ZdXyTEOJpSEI6gCKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190817_132422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t8ptJ5af_P0/XYd85nUUudI/AAAAAAAAGgo/wWPG32zkTPQmdFJ7pQ-ZdXyTEOJpSEI6gCKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190817_132422.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chateau de roi René, Taracson - 12th/15th century</td></tr>
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Our overnight mooring on a small jetty near Saint Gilles was to be our final stop on the French canals for this year. We still had a long way to travel but it would all be by river; firstly the Petite Rhone, then the Rhone and finally the Saone (with a short side trip onto the Seille). Excluding the Seille, a distance of about 500km and all against the current. By this time it was mid August. Summer continued to be very hot and dry so we were anticipating conditions would be as favourable as they would ever be but you never can tell.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vT9ej4REqEY/XYd9Zrk9ugI/AAAAAAAAGgw/Q75DupukrN82_koiZsD1JLv8RzxDaqK4wCKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190816_162140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vT9ej4REqEY/XYd9Zrk9ugI/AAAAAAAAGgw/Q75DupukrN82_koiZsD1JLv8RzxDaqK4wCKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190816_162140.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Final night on the canals - near Saint Gilles</td></tr>
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The first of the 19 locks ahead of us (onto the Petite Rhone) is 190m long x 11.40 - the same dimensions as the locks on the Rhone itself. However, unlike the others the change in water level was virtually imperceptible. From the lock to the Rhone proper is 21 km, a little over 2 hours. We saw no one on the river bar a couple of small fishing boats. The Petite Rhone joins the Rhone quite close to Arles. We had toyed with the idea of going there but from what we had heard, mooring safely is a a problem so, when we came to the junction of the big river, we turned left and upstream.<br />
Finding places to stop on a river is always a problem. The Rhone is a busy waterway carrying large commercial barges and river cruise ships. Commercial traffic has priority, of course, not only at locks but also at many quays. The nights' stops required planning - not one of our fortes but necessary.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pjmTqBuoBg/XYpg3SZMhiI/AAAAAAAAGhk/_KtgR02_YqUO6TTpwkjvUcPlbuFVGdgTACKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190817_134405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pjmTqBuoBg/XYpg3SZMhiI/AAAAAAAAGhk/_KtgR02_YqUO6TTpwkjvUcPlbuFVGdgTACKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190817_134405.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching the first lock on the Rhone</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KngbwmDi4sI/XYphSoKCE8I/AAAAAAAAGhs/rK7xN5Ma1Lgmetb7tDxGpJ1_1CLCHf7YACKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190817_140812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KngbwmDi4sI/XYphSoKCE8I/AAAAAAAAGhs/rK7xN5Ma1Lgmetb7tDxGpJ1_1CLCHf7YACKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190817_140812.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In we go - on our own</td></tr>
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There was none of the usual lazing around all morning, drinking numerous cups of tea whilst wasting time keeping up with Brexit shenanigans on our new, whizz bang, internet deal then deciding to saunter off after lunch. No, we were up and away first thing (well by around 10-ish) with a stopping place in mind and a back-up, if possible, in case the first option was taken. We were also hoping to try and visit some of the places we had missed out on our our trip south.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--P2vNzG1iqY/XYps2U1MBCI/AAAAAAAAGiY/xN_-Hl8qdaEoQfDx0r_H38o5qZ21Uxu5gCKgBGAsYHg/s1600/IMG_20190818_063825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--P2vNzG1iqY/XYps2U1MBCI/AAAAAAAAGiY/xN_-Hl8qdaEoQfDx0r_H38o5qZ21Uxu5gCKgBGAsYHg/s640/IMG_20190818_063825.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aramon at dawn - view from the porthole</td></tr>
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<br />
That first evening though we found ourselves once again at Aramon where we'd spent almost 2 weeks 5 years ago, waiting for the elusive courier to pick up our non-functional, expensive a/c unit and return it to the UK. This was the long running saga of our trip south (spoiler, he never caught up with us until Toulouse).We'd had a very enjoyable stay there though, along with a great group of boaters.<br />
We had hoped to go on to Avignon but it had taken a little longer than anticipated at the first of the huge locks at Beaucaire and we didn't want to risk not finding a space at the popular city late in the day.<br />
Sadly, the flamboyant ex fighter pilot, port captain Olivier, has departed and the port is now run by the commune which has doubled the price - now 40 euros for one night. We were the sole visitng boat. We left first thing the next morning.Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-59131838812694778542019-09-18T21:49:00.001+01:002020-05-05T03:41:19.483+01:00Aigues Mortes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSY0_3qVmQL1bxt74tleseBUCdfi-iG2KWS7lTvAJ4enQJisEUcw2geEyPSuoQD1L3Ro6FVW3I7o7MGmPS6bCQJqBK0SgxQY3CT0ifHRPIDfm-xz00wBlqeubIeZZHP84oMg0NPQvaWRbN/s1600/IMG_20190815_155608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSY0_3qVmQL1bxt74tleseBUCdfi-iG2KWS7lTvAJ4enQJisEUcw2geEyPSuoQD1L3Ro6FVW3I7o7MGmPS6bCQJqBK0SgxQY3CT0ifHRPIDfm-xz00wBlqeubIeZZHP84oMg0NPQvaWRbN/s400/IMG_20190815_155608.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aigues Mortes</td></tr>
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The name Aigues Mortes means Dead Water (stagnant water) presumably from the marshlands surrounding the city. Not a very attractive name but for once a place outshines its moniker. The city dates from 1240 and was built as a Mediterranean seaport from which King Louis 1X launched 2 Crusades. Ramparts, 10m high and 1.750km long, surround the city.<br />
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Residential area a few streets away from the tourist centre - Aigues Mortes</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Town basin and swing railway bridge - Aigues Mortes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">l'Avenir at Aigues Mortes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salt pyramids and pink salt marsh Aigues Mortes. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the ramparts</td></tr>
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We arrived a week too early for the medieval festival which seems to be par for the course this trip. We had been there for it on our <a href="https://catrionarob.blogspot.com/2015/08/medieval-fetes-and-floods-aigues-mortes.html" target="_blank">previous visit</a> when our timing seemed better so we weren't too disappointed.<br />
The town was full of tourists but away from the immediate centre of cafes, restaurants and gift shops it is remarkably quiet. Aigues Mortes seems a little like Carcassonne by the sea to me but, unlike Carcassonne, it does still have ordinary families living within its walls- not just proprietors of tourist shops.<br />
We stayed for a couple of days mooring for free in the town basin just outside the city walls.Time to put our windscreens back in place now that we were past all the low bridges. A turn on the antique carousel and then 'au revoir' to the south of France.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some more 'not wild' Camargue horses in the canal just outside Aigues Mortes</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-8676597354190858442019-09-08T17:22:00.000+01:002019-09-08T17:48:47.652+01:00La Maguelone<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We made fairly quick progress along the Rhone a Sete canal stopping over only in Frontignan, La Maguelone and Aigues Mortes.<br />
There are 3 little jetties at La Maguelone but one of them is now used exclusively for a passenger ferry service. The other 2 can be tricky to moor on in high winds (which is often) so there's a good chance that one will be free. They are right beside a floating swing footbridge powered by a large outboard. When the bridge operator sees a boat approaching he or she closes it off to pedestrians then, judging things to the millisecond, has the bridge open at the exact moment the boat arrives. As soon as the boat begins to pass through s/he goes into reverse and the bridge sweeps to a close just metres behind the boat. There's not much margin for error so don't wait around! So, boats heading south are presented with an opening bridge and lots of pedestrians waiting to cross and maybe they feel obliged to continue through or don't have time to notice the jetties. Whatever the reason, when we arrived the jetties were free and the other side of the bridge had about 20 boats lined up along a bank so low that I don't know how you'd get back on board once you'd disembarked.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The footbridge and arched gateway at La Maguelone</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Footbridge in operation</td></tr>
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The bridge links a carpark to La Maguelone where there was once an ancient settlement and cathedral. The cathedral has been partially restored and may be visited but mostly people come here to go to the beach.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Early morning at La Maguelone beach before the crowds arrive</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petit Train which ferries beachgoers to and from the bridge (free of charge)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset over the etang</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-46325467460030871982019-09-08T15:31:00.000+01:002019-09-08T15:32:41.203+01:00Camargue<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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What image does the word Camargue conjure up for you? I'd bet wild, white horses galloping through water,<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">-the reality</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Neither are they all white. Foals are born dark and gradually become white by 5 yrs old</td></tr>
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- or perhaps vast flocks of pink flamingoes<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Egret at La Maguelone. Nice pink cottage though.</td></tr>
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-not a single one I'm afraid.<br />
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The marshlands seemed a lot drier than we remember the previous time we were here, when we definitely did see flamingoes. The horses were just as laid back then though. One welcome consequence of the dryness (for us that is) was the complete absence of mosquitoes.<br />
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The landscape is still beautiful however. The canal really only skirts the wilderness area and it is a shifting landscape so, I daresay, the flamingoes (and mozzies) are flourishing a little further away.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No longer any access to this abandoned house except by boat</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishermen's homes alongside the etangs.</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-65365147218677219982019-09-06T14:37:00.001+01:002020-05-05T03:42:18.745+01:00Marseillian and the Etang de Thau<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Marseillian, 2km around the corner from the Canal de Midi, is the first port on the Etang de Thau and a welcome, if expensive, stopover before tackling the 21km to the Canal de Rhone au Sete. Coming in the other direction, particularly if you've made the trek down the Rhone, arriving at the little port is the moment you feel, 'We've made it.'<br />
The bustling quays of the pretty port are lined with small restaurants all serving, amongst other delicacies, oysters from the extensive oyster beds in the etang. They could not be more fresh and if you are a fan of oysters you won't be disappointed. The other speciality of the town is Noilly Prat (vermouth) and you can go and see how that has been made here since 1813 at the Maison Noilly Prat, in the rue Noilly. We didn't go but I understand the manufacture is a rather arcane process involving secret recipes and so on.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing one of the oyster beds - Etang de Thau</td></tr>
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As well as being a working fishing port the town is popular with holidaymakers taking some time out from the close-by Mediterranean beaches. For us it is a lovely place to relax on deck for a few days and watch the passing parade; a glass of something chilled in hand, a plate of oysters on the table, all against the beautiful backdrop of the etang. Once again we remind ourselves how lucky we are.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marseillian at night</td></tr>
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The etang (lagoon) takes about 2 hours to cross. Navigation is not permitted for pleasure craft if winds are at or above force 4 as large waves can quickly develop and conditions become dangerous. The day we left the Midi and entered the etang the water was mirror-like. The morning we set off on our crossing the skies were still blue but the wind was beginning to blow- not too strongly but enough to make the trip a bit lumpy and for spray to be thrown up.<br />
On the whole it was pleasant enough- much more so than on our way south. The channel is marked by very few markers and they are far apart and difficult to spot. I am never comfortable on large expanses of water so I was happy when, with a little help from the ipad and GPS we spotted the entrance to the Canal de Rhone a Sete.<br />
This end of the etang near Sete has new developments of apartments along the headland separating the lagoon and the Mediterranean. On entering the canal however, original fisherman's cottages still line the banks. Hopefully these simple homes will remain for many years to come.<br />
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-61942107006162537922019-08-30T21:45:00.003+01:002019-09-01T19:27:01.170+01:00The End of the Midi<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beziers from the aqueduct over the River Orb</td></tr>
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After the excitement of Fonserannes locks we initially planned to stop in Beziers for a few days. 'Stay until next week,' we were encouraged repeatedly. 'For the Feria' (the festival of the bulls). Since bullfighting has been banned in some parts of Spain the event in Beziers has become even more popular with up to a million people crowding into the city for a week each August. The streets are jam packed every night with competing styles of music and dancing, fireworks, light shows and horse riders. All very noisy, spectacular and enjoyable we were assured. The event does centre around bull fighting however, which remains well supported in this area of France.Whilst we have never been to a bull fight (nor would we go) we have seen bull running in small towns. The young bulls weren't injured but they were teased and seemed very confused and frightened.<br />
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The old city (which we'd explored previously and is certainly worth looking around) is a long, uphill walk along very busy roads. The prospect of doing that every evening to join the massive crowds wasn't overly appealing nor was waiting around in the port for a week in the extremely hot and windy conditions. We decided we would give the Feria a miss.<br />
We can recommend the new boutique brewery beside the port though. La Gorge Fraiche - a brave venture in a major wine producing area = brews and sells very good beer. It is located in the old sugar mill; one of the few original buildings in the area not threatened with demolition during the planned redevelopment around the old port i.e. apartments and concrete.<br />
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From Beziers to the end of the Midi (or should that be the beginning?) the canal closely follows the Mediterranean coast. No more than a bike ride away, should you be able to find a place to stop.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Busy Portiragnes Plage on the Mediterranean - a 5km bike ride through salt marsh tracks from the canal. I got lost on the way back. The beach was not really worth the effort to be honest.</td></tr>
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There are still many hire boaters on this stretch for whom the scenery might be a bit disappointing. No views at all, no remaining plane trees and no replanting until after the second last lock of the canal -round lock at Agde.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agde round lock. It has 3 sets of gates. We were the only boat this overcast day. </td></tr>
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But then the canal banks flatten out and the vista opens up over the beautiful etang de Thau. When we passed this way 5 years ago these final few kilometres were blighted by abandoned, sinking wrecks and shabby, unregulated liveaboard boats. These have now been cleared away. Any remaining vessels have permits and proper moorings. And what a difference this makes. Instead of the eye been drawn to the banks lined with sad, uncared for boats we look up and out over the beautiful wide and wild lake.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the Midi. Out onto the etang de Thau</td></tr>
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And so, au revoir Canal du Midi; out past the lighthouse and on towards Marseillian - one of our favourite ports.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Approaching Marseillian</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marseillian</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-36980727293030732812019-08-25T17:34:00.002+01:002019-08-31T13:52:16.473+01:00Detour to Narbonne<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Roman Bridge' Narbonne</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: medium;">Before we say goodbye to the canal du Midi I need to backtrack a little- almost to Le Someil (the photogenic village with the antiquarian book shop and the narrow arched bridge). A couple of km from the village we turn off onto the Port Nouvelle Junction and descend 8 locks in 5 km onto the River Aude - the river which flooded last year causing such destruction and deaths. This year the Aude is shallow and care has to be taken to keep carefully to the required course to avoid running aground. After 600m we leave the river and enter the Canal de la Robine which leads to the city of Narbonne and then on to Port Nouvelle on the Mediterranean.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Umbrella pines at junction leading to Canal du Robine and Narbonne</td></tr>
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Being in a hurry on our way south in 2015 we had ignored this canal but as it's unlikely we'll be back this way again by boat we decided to make the detour. And we are happy that we did. Narbonne is certainly worth a visit.<br />
There is some disagreement as to the lowest bridge on the Midi. Capestang is usually the one everyone worries about. It is certainly low and, at the same time, like many bridges, at a slightly awkward angle but I think that Carcassonne is lower. Much depends on fluctuating water levels though. As I've previously mentioned we removed our windscreens and lowered our nav frame in order to safely fit under the Midi stone bridges and we expected the Robine bridges to be the same. Little did we know that the water level had been raised by 10cm.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Duck!</td></tr>
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Exiting a lock through a little arched bridge we came to a grinding, juddering almost halt half-way through. One of the mounts on top of the nav frame was jamming on the roof. There was nothing for it but for me to hang off the frame as if it were a monkey bar and just keep on scraping through whilst gouging a furrow in the 250 year old limestone (we weren't the first to be caught out - the evidence was clearly to be seen).<br />
Once through we lowered the nav frame further which was just as well as once you reach Narbonne there is an even lower bridge - the medieval "Roman Bridge" which has a complete street of shops and houses on top of it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The back of the 'Roman Bridge" leading into the port</td></tr>
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Narbonne was once the major sea port between Spain and Italy but by the Middle Ages the sea had retreated. The port (Port Nouvelle) is another 20km further down the canal. This section, we were informed, was too shallow for us to navigate which disappointed one of us.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the last lock into Narbonne</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">-and out</td></tr>
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The port is situated right beside the historic centre dominated by the huge 12th-14th century Bishop's Palace and below the wonderful covered market. Our only quibble was the incessant music blasting through loudspeakers situated all along the quayside and throughout the narrow medieval streets. In the evenings this was replace by assorted (and better) live music from outside the restaurants, bars and the night market. A lively city.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the port </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Via Domitia - Roman road excavated in the centre of Narbonne. Looks difficult to walk on.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horreum, Narbonne. Roman tunnels possibly used for grain storage.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral Saint Juste and Saint Pasteur<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bishops Palace/ Hotel de Ville Narbonne</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cathedral cloisters</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-50588617174537559222019-08-15T13:28:00.000+01:002019-08-31T14:12:04.036+01:00Down the Midi<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-czlX80lRidw/XVVInkAV0PI/AAAAAAAAFZI/_lIIaz-K9IM5nwkwZ9Stp0a0TDfHyWttwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC00534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1038" data-original-width="1600" height="257" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-czlX80lRidw/XVVInkAV0PI/AAAAAAAAFZI/_lIIaz-K9IM5nwkwZ9Stp0a0TDfHyWttwCLcBGAs/s400/DSC00534.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Someil - village shop inside the green barge</td></tr>
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Last year we travelled on <a href="https://catrionarob.blogspot.com/2018/09/back-on-midi.html" target="_blank">the Midi in September</a> which, due to the hire companies offering large end of season discounts, was crazily busy. We expected August this year to be similarly dodgem-like. When we travelled <a href="https://catrionarob.blogspot.com/2015/09/canal-du-midi-to-castelnaudary.html" target="_blank">south in 2015</a> it certainly was; sometimes we'd spend hours queuing for locks. However, whilst there are still many (more than enough) boats, it has been quieter than anticipated.<br />
The first big hire base is at Castelnaudary and nearly all the boats leaving from there choose to travel towards Carcassonne. The hirers are given a quick driving lesson around the large basin, shown how to mediterranean moor (back into a space) and sent on their way. The very first obstacle to confront them is a 4 lock staircase just to get out of the basin. The good news is that it is going downhill and in a sheltered spot and so not as daunting as it would be going the other direction.<br />
As mentioned previously, despite the fewer numbers of boats than expected, we still had to share many locks- sometimes nerve-racking, occasionally funny and now and then, if spending a large part of the day (or even several days) with the same boat, providing an opportunity to strike up a brief friendship.<br />
As we have travelled this route previously we've tried, where possible, to stopover in different ports. In October last year parts of the region between Carcassonne and Trebes were devasted when the river Aude burst its banks; the worst flood for 100 years. 14 people died. The canal and river are close- sometimes side by side- and so the canal suffered major damage. There has been a huge effort to reinstate and repair banks, bridges and some locks and at the same time some villages have had new jetties or bollards providing extra opportunities for visiting. The removal of the diseased plane trees has more or less finished - there are virtually none left now which has affected the ambiance and look of the canal. This is not all bad. Views have been opened up of the beautiful surrounding countryside -with many large, lush vineyards- all the way to distant mountains. There has been an ongoing programme of replanting a variety of young trees but it will be years before they grow to maturity.<br />
A couple of villages new to us that we enjoyed were Le Somail and Colombiers. Both had been full when we passed by in 2015. The 'hameau' of Le Somail, in particular, is very pretty and set around the original stone, hump-backed bridge. This was one of the overnight stops for the post boat from Toulouse to Narbonne and so, like Negra, has a small chapel for the boatmen.<br />
A couple of restaurants overlook the canal and across the bridge is the village shop housed inside a peniche. The most popular place seemed to be the antiquarian bookshop. From the outside it looks to be quite small but it opens out, Tardis-like, into an enormous space. I think the building may once have been a barn.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3O2NSTJoWg/XVVCcPCWSyI/AAAAAAAAFZA/H9XclCObWqkW0NBLjn7ltR_VclkaUTu1wCEwYBhgL/s1600/DSC00538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--3O2NSTJoWg/XVVCcPCWSyI/AAAAAAAAFZA/H9XclCObWqkW0NBLjn7ltR_VclkaUTu1wCEwYBhgL/s320/DSC00538.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Le Someil - antiquarian bookshop</td></tr>
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Colombiers lies just beyond the Malpas tunnel (160m long and the first navigable canal tunnel ever built).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1YRi8sc5xVFVewk9kmJEKtdaYuX4CJRo_6rPtwQ0oPmGYKBfAmBrUanNrsIYqbz4Oiw1yBflyanBORzL7AuMzOMqalt7zDxuuoA0XGaS5Jez4U2z9KZ-MyaUn6WSiWi5LvkjVlHmIVPhc/s1600/DSC00580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1YRi8sc5xVFVewk9kmJEKtdaYuX4CJRo_6rPtwQ0oPmGYKBfAmBrUanNrsIYqbz4Oiw1yBflyanBORzL7AuMzOMqalt7zDxuuoA0XGaS5Jez4U2z9KZ-MyaUn6WSiWi5LvkjVlHmIVPhc/s320/DSC00580.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passing through the Malpas Tunnel</td></tr>
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The village is dominated by a chateau from the 16th century but I was more interested in something a litte older - the Oppidum d'Enserune.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEytl1wWxcA/XVVKz4meItI/AAAAAAAAFZg/3vCsYtMwr9ECeJAw3EOthBhKBUckvTaKwCLcBGAs/s1600/DSC00586.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GEytl1wWxcA/XVVKz4meItI/AAAAAAAAFZg/3vCsYtMwr9ECeJAw3EOthBhKBUckvTaKwCLcBGAs/s320/DSC00586.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the excavated remains of a Romanised Gallic settlement inhabited from the 6th - 2nd century BC. It sits on top of a high hill overlooking a vast plain and whilst it wasn't all that far distance-wise from Colombiers it was a hard slog uphill in 37 degree heat. I nearly gave up when I stopped for a rest and discovered I'd left my water bottle behind. However, I decided it was probably closer to carry on and buy a drink at the museum at the top than go back and have achieved nothing for all the effort. The 360 degree view from the top was worth the climb in itself.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Montady Etang</td></tr>
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The Montady etang, which can be seen clearly from the Oppidum, was once a swamp which was drained by monks in the 13th century. The drainage channels radiate like sun rays dividing the area into sections for farming. The channels carry the water to a central drain and thereafter it passes through a 1300m tunnel into a stream and eventually to lakes near Capestang. A marvellous achievement from the middle ages.<br />
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Then it was on to the Fonseranes locks at Bezier. No avoiding them. They are listed in all the tourist brochures as one of unmissable sites of the Herault region and so they are crowded with spectators photographing and videoing and whilst I'm sure no-one hopes for a disaster they wouldn't say no to something interesting happening to post online. There's much less scope for things to go wrong when going down and I'm happy to say we passed through unscathed. My previous observation that the lock keepers this year were helpful, pleasant and courteous don't apply to this section though. I realise it may sometimes be a challenge dealing with hire boaters but without them, dear eclusiers, you probably wouldn't have a job.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N6fQu8huX-A/XWpxujHMIKI/AAAAAAAAGDo/OyUNTlNEP6spoR3nQ4HhWXW8cmcjTBRUgCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190807_131822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N6fQu8huX-A/XWpxujHMIKI/AAAAAAAAGDo/OyUNTlNEP6spoR3nQ4HhWXW8cmcjTBRUgCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_20190807_131822.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonserannes Locks</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-88082527062393427852019-08-09T17:36:00.000+01:002019-08-31T13:51:10.208+01:00Foodie Faux Pas<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-68xYeycCHZI/XU2ecSuWxxI/AAAAAAAAFOA/laJrtV_CLzc4JLUBiDT1xO8jqijJZ0UlQCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190805_194044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1503" data-original-width="1600" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-68xYeycCHZI/XU2ecSuWxxI/AAAAAAAAFOA/laJrtV_CLzc4JLUBiDT1xO8jqijJZ0UlQCKgBGAs/s400/IMG_20190805_194044.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La Viande Txoigitxu - an expensive dinner. This plate cost 62 euros</td></tr>
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Most people who have eaten restaurant or cafe food in a foreign country will have probably experienced the occasional 'surprise' dish. Perhaps the surprise was in the excellence of the food, perhaps disappointment in the standard or, worst of all, it's an 'oh good grief what the **** is this I've ordered?' And do I really want to know? We've experienced all three over the past couple of months including some truly dire pizzas but then a bad pizza is never really that unexpected; I'm of the opinion now that if it takes more than 10 minutes to make and serve it counts as above average on the pizza edibility scale.<br />
Nowadays, many people unfamiliar with the language on a menu will use their smart phone and Google translate which is sensible. For us, maybe we don't have a phone with us, or there's no internet connection, or we (I) assume we know what the word means. Sometimes we might guess or we just say who knows? - let's be adventurous. Actually the latter is usually me and it has been an effective way of searing some vocabulary into my brain. I know to steer clear of 'andouillettes de Troyes' for example that 'ris' is not rice (that's 'riz') and that salade de gesiers is best not ordered again.<br />
Of course taste is entirely a personal matter. French cooking doesn't waste any animal parts - it turns them into 'delicacies'. If you don't know what they are perhaps you'll find them delicious too. Incidentally being vegetarian or vegan in regional France might limit your choices but there is generally a variety of salads on offer (or pizza).<br />
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A couple of food words I learned recently:<br />
<b>Bulot</b>. I ordered the set menu as it included the main course I actually wanted and cost only 4 euros more. For that I would got an entree and dessert as well. The entree was Salade de Bulots et crevettes. I knew crevettes were prawns but what were bulots? A quick check of the a la carte had them as usually costing 13 euro so I thought they can't be bad (so where's the reasoning in that?) When the glass bowl was placed in front of me I had one of those aforementioned good grief moments. The prawns hung delicately around the lip of the bowl but perched atop the lettuce were what looked like 4 <i>giant</i> snails. It should have been called a gardener's nightmare. I knew already that snails are escargots and I do actually quite like them - hot and in garlic and parsley butter. But these were huge and straight out of a cold fridge. Well, you don't know until you try do you? So I did and you don't need to. They were disgusting (in my opinion). They weren't in fact snails. Bulots are whelks.<br />
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<b>Morue</b>. This was on the specials board at a little restaurant beside the canal in the lovely village of Le Someil. This time I asked what it was. The waitress was keen to speak in English and replied that it was cod. I buy cod quite often and know that it is 'cabillaud' so I queried her, repeating both the words and asking if they are the same. Yes, it is cod she insisted. So, I repeated 'morue' again and asked her if I was pronouncing it correctly. She gave me the proper pronunciation and started laughing when I said it again loudly and clearly in my best French accent. 'You must be <i>very </i>careful with this word,' she said. ' It is used for a sad lady.' Fortunately, I have not since gone around describing myself or anyone else as feeling or looking a bit 'morue'. As well as being cod it means a prostitute. The filet de morue was very good I'm happy to report.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Menu at Vinauberge, Poilhes. Photo above.</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-73722327622698852712019-08-07T09:22:00.002+01:002019-08-31T13:51:10.141+01:00Toulouse to the Top (of the Midi)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The Canal du Midi begins at Toulouse and ends, 240 km later, at the Etang de Thau close to the Mediterranean. It is, by far, the most popular canal for holidaymakers and there are many, many boat hire bases along its length. At times it can be quite chaotic. Last year we travelled as far as Carcassonne in September and experienced queues at most locks and full ports. According to the capitaine at Carcassonne, September is the busiest month as the hire companies discount their rates and just about every boat is out. That is <i>a lot</i> of boats.To be honest, beautiful as this canal is, we weren't really looking forward to it.<br />
The Canal du Midi is over 300 years old and characterised by curves: picturesque arched (low and narrow) bridges, oval locks and the winding waterway itself. The locks ( sometimes doubles, trebles or more) can be tricky to negotiate and during the summer you will usually need to share with one or two other boats. Going downhill is normally much easier than going up except that the Midi often has strong winds blowing and the lightweight, shallow draft hire boats are difficult to control in these conditions. Over the past week or two we've seen many boats being driven much too fast then bouncing off lock gates and walls and ending up sideways on with some poor crew member ashore hauling desperately on a long rope. Our strategy has been to hang back and just wait- sometimes quite a long time - until people get sorted. Much depends on how helpful the lock keeper is. I think that those we've met this year have, on the whole, been very good. Better than in previous years. Perhaps by September they've just had enough.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oval lock - Midi</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Treble lock</td></tr>
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In order to safely pass under the bridges we have had to remove our windscreens, which we did in Toulouse. We still use our canopy but have it secured with elastic hooks which can be undone quickly. A shout of 'curvy bridge!' means get up here, undo the hooks and fold everything back, quick smart.<br />
There aren't many hire boats on the the stretch from Toulouse to the summit and so far this section's plane trees haven't succumbed to the deadly fungus so it was a fairly quiet, shady, pleasant trip. Our only hiccup came after the very last of the uphill locks.<br />
I know it's not like scaling a mountain but there's always a hint of a similar feeling of achievement when you arrive at the summit of a canal. It's been hard work just getting there and how much more difficult it must have been to actually build this in the first place - by hand. There is a monument to Pierre-Paul Riquet, the designer and engineer who conceived and realised the building of the canal, in a park at the summit. The 12 000 workers he employed (600 of them women) deserve our thoughts and thanks as well. A truly awesome achievement.<br />
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My hiccup may seem a minor one but not to me. I had left my boat hook at the aforementioned last lock. Some may think that's no big deal in the grand scheme of things but sometimes it's the small things that make a difference and the lowly boat hook is pretty important to me. My job (well, one of them) is chief rope wrangler and lock operator. I could do without a boat hook but it would make my life that much more difficult. As a friend remarked it's like an extension to your arm.<br />
Years ago, on the canal de Bourgogne someone stole my boathook. I couldn't believe that another boater would do such a thing (and sadly it must have been someone from a boat). Finding somewhere to buy a replacement took a long time (and there are <i>so</i> many locks on that canal). This time it was my own fault.<br />
I didn't discover the loss until we'd arrived at the next lock - 5km away. I was pretty upset and so annoyed at myself. Rob, to his great credit immediately offloaded the small bike (mistake) and peddled off at high (-ish) speed. For anyone considering the long distance cycle route (I won't call it a path) along the Midi I suggest you stock up on padded shorts. From what we've seen of it since Toulouse it is often very rough and sometimes little more than a narrow track. (Tououse to Bordeaux is great). Also, as Rob discovered, the section along the summit was re-routed away from the canal and onto roads entailing quite a few extra kilometres. He wished he had taken the e-velo.<br />
I remembered there was a lock keeper's house at the lock which is used as an office so it occurred to me that maybe I should try calling the keeper. It was almost the lunch break and I thought if the hook lay there for any length of time someone would take it. So, I took a deep breath, attempted to organise my thoughts into semi-coherent French and dialled.<br />
Well, the keeper didn't speak any English at all. So we had a 'conversation' where I explained my problem as best as I could in French and then he replied in very fast French saying... who knows what? So, I did that that annoying thing beloved of politicians and just kept repeating the same statement over again. The keeper replied, probably also repeating much the same thing which, I guessed, was that he'd go and check, as the line went quiet for a minute. Then he came back on, rattled off a few more sentences to which I replied that my husband would arrive on a bike and thank you so much. Then I waited.<br />
Eventually, the triumphant hero returned, aboard his trusty steed, lance in hand. (Sorry, but I was so pleased to see him and the boathook). The lock keeper had been waiting for him at the door of the cottage. So I was doubly pleased. We had the boathook back and I had, apparently, managed to make myself understood on the phone. No mean feat.<br />
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-13685434898463555132019-08-03T13:22:00.000+01:002019-08-03T13:32:26.400+01:00A Not So Hidden Gem -Toulouse <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Place du Capitole Toulouse</td></tr>
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The port in Toulouse is semi-closed this summer in that its pontoons have (mostly) been removed for upgrading. The capitainerie remains open however, so it is possible to reserve a mooring on the wall on the other side of the canal, if access to electricity and/or water is required. The main problem with that side of the canal is that it is in full sunshine for most of the day and this year that's a major drawback. We decided instead to stop just past the port under the trees. There are quite a few bollards and it is free but no services. Not entirely drawback free either - it's right onto the towpath which, in a major city like Toulouse, could be problematic. We try and take sensible precautions by making sure things are put away, locked up and so forth and we also stop where there are other occupied boats. The canal is slightly shallow at the side there so we had to tie up a bit out from the edge which added one layer of difficulty for anyone wanting to board (me included). As it was, the major danger was from speeding cyclists on the towpath. Toulouse has a good cyclepath network and lots of people commute by bike. Priority is supposed to be given to pedestrians on the towpath and the bikes are meant to go slowly (but don't). There are so many of them it pays to be vigilant and whatever you do don't saunter from side to side.<br />
I like Toulouse. It is a handsome, prosperous city and there is plenty for the visitor to see. It also has lots (and I mean lots) of shops. How so many expensive clothing shops remain in business beats me but then I'm still wearing the same shirt in Toulouse that I was wearing in Paris 5 years ago - I know because the photo popped up as a 'memory' on a certain website the other day. The only things we wanted to buy were a couple of new chairs, our previous two having both given up the ghost in the same week when someone sat on them and the canvas split in two. Could I find a shop selling chairs? (I did find out later that there is an Ikea on the outskirts of Toulouse which runs a shuttle bus from the city but at the time of writing, a few cities further on, we are still chairless).<br />
The only major site (and it is <i>the </i>major site) I hadn't visited was the The Capitole. Every time I had passed by there was always a huge queue or there was something on restricting entry. This time, when I walked through the huge square I noticed there was no queue.<br />
What a beautiful building; museum, art gallery, working local government building, place to get married (amazingvenue), theatre and more. If you visit Toulouse make sure you go -no ticket required, no cost.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Council Chambers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salle Gervais - Love at 40 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salle Gervais - Love at 60</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ceiling - Salle des Illustres</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Salle des Illustres - the wedding venue</td></tr>
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-11443227949029618462019-07-28T17:58:00.002+01:002019-07-29T07:45:06.932+01:00'Le Tour' at Toulouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The day we arrived in Toulouse the Tour de France was hurtling towards the city. In the hour and a half it took us to cruise the last 5 kilometres and negotiate the 3 locks to the port the cyclists were about 60 km closer.<br />
We have seen the Tour before. Some years ago we were lucky enough to be in Paris for the finish which was exciting - the atmosphere that is. Despite positioning ourselves early, where we thought we'd see plenty of the action, by the time the cyclists appeared the crowds were so thick and comprised of apparent giants that we felt lucky to glimpse the top of a helmet or the flash of a leg. I say we but one of us gave up and repaired to a bar to watch all the action on tv. The best thing about the day was that the roads all remained closed for hours after the race finished and it was quite magical strolling around a Paris bereft of traffic.<br />
Having learned from our previous experience, this time we decided not to try and watch from the finishing line. Instead, we walked a few hundred metres along the canal from our boat and joined the spectators lining the route where it crossed the bridge. Great view, people one or two deep, everyone could see. The busiest and rowdiest spot was across the road at the Irish pub (The Danu - although it seems to be calling itself an English pub at the moment). The gendarmes (loads out all over the city + army) kept trying to calm down the over-exuberant and over-refreshed young lads balancing between the outdoor tables and the railings fearing, I suppose they'd cause an international, televised incident by tumbling in front of the riders but they ignored them. Fortunately for everyone they managed to stay upright.<br />
We had, we guessed, about 20 minutes to wait for the riders. During that time there were loads of team cars and motorcyclists who all seemed pretty excited to be part of the entourage, hooting horns and waving as they sped past. Helicopters clattering overhead signalled the cyclists' imminent arrival and finally motorcyclists with flashing lights. The crowds a few hundred metres up the slight hill began cheering, the riders appeared round the bend and then there they were! A colourful bolt of pure energy swept past just metres away sweeping up the spectators into a Mexican wave of excitement. The lads on the tables opposite could barely contain themselves. Everyone (us included) cheering and clapping and roaring encouragement. In moments they were gone. Even the stragglers were only seconds behind.<br />
The gendarmes opened up the barriers and we were allowed to cross the road. So, we strolled across to the Irish pub for a well earned pint of beer.<br />
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-80764577794451657692019-07-26T13:35:00.001+01:002019-07-28T15:52:28.770+01:00The Trek to Toulouse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We have cruised the section of canal from Buzet to Toulouse many times - it's a little hard to find anything new to say about it. We always enjoy the section as far as Montech but after that it's long, straight and frankly a bit tedious.<br />
This time we had stops in some of our favourite places.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serignac Eglise - twisted spire</td></tr>
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The pretty bastide village of Serignac where it's good to see the restaurant in the square expanding and clearly doing well. So well, we thought, that they could afford to serve foie gras as an 'amuse bouche.' Except it wasn't an 'amuse bouche' it was someone else's starter given to us by mistake. We insisted on paying (as we'd eaten it) but they were more insistent that we shoudn't.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Market Hall Valence d'Agen</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Valence d'Agen</td></tr>
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The day to visit Valence d'Agen is market day (Tuesday) when there are stalls in the 2 market halls and throughout the streets. During summer there are lots of other activities organised. We missed the giant picnic and karaoke held at the port I'm sorry to say but were there in time to enjoy an 'authentic' meal at the pop up Italian village- although I was a little surprised to bump into a couple of the Italian chefs buying their authentic supplies in the local Intermarche supermarket the following morning.<br />
Valence also has a couple of attractive circular lavoirs - unusual for this area of France.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lavoir. Valence d'Agen</td></tr>
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Then it was a long, hot day (is there any other sort this year?) all the way to Moissac.<br />
We usually make a stop in Agen but this time we decided to push on through and spend an extra day in Moissac. The flight of 4 locks up to Agen is a killer in hot weather. They are all deep which means shimmying up long, slimy, slippery ladders. I don't like to climb up clutching a rope so I always hurl the ropes up first. I'm a dab hand at rope throwing these days - pity there's not much call for the skill elsewhere in my life. The locks all fill slowly so it's a long wait in blazing sunshine. I'll be happy not to do them again.<br />
There is the treat of the magnificent aqueduct at the top of course. The aqueduct over the River Garonne is 539m long and was completed in 1849. It still gives me a bit of a thrill to cross.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aqueduct Agen</td></tr>
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Moissac is another town I'll be a little sad not to see again. The port is friendly and well run with a mixture of long stayers and those passing through. The town and its abbey are on the Santiago de Compostella route so there are many pilgrims visiting and also trudging along the towpath. Not an appealing journey in 40 degree heat.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doorway in Moissac - not the celebrated abbey doorway!</td></tr>
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Then on to Castelsarrasin where we began this year. Again a very friendly port and a great market town (as is Moissac). After that we had a brief stop at Montech (very good restaurant beside the port) and where we bought our trusty e-velo last year.<br />
Next major stop -Toulouse.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last stop before Toulouse</td></tr>
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Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-91481035154953677142019-07-26T10:51:00.000+01:002019-07-26T10:51:42.039+01:00Bye Bye Buzet<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After our visitors left a sudden executive decision was made. 'Enough of this heat. Let's head north.' Of course we can't just 'head north' by boat due to the not so small matter of a mountain range in the way. We first need to go east - all the way to the Mediterranean. Since that decision snapped from idea into action the heat has built up into a wave and swept north - all the way to Scotland. There's no escape. Yesterday Paris suffered in 42 degrees and Edinburgh had its hottest ever day of 31.6.<br />
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We have loved our summers on the comparatively (with the Midi) quiet Garonne. The attractive small towns and villages have some really good markets - Castelsarrasin, Moissac and Valence d'Agen in particular and then there are the night markets- food stalls, communal eating and live entertainment- which are less frequent but not to be missed. Add to that various summer events organised by the village social committees which always welcome visitors and then the bigger attractions provided by the towns which we sometimes happened upon and more often just missed. I've just found out, for instance, that Sting is playing a concert here tonight and The Black Eyed Peas tomorrow. Unsurprisingly they are sold out.<br />
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And then there is the friendly, welcoming, ever-helpful boating community some of whom live year round on the canal; others, like us, who return year after year and others who operate businesses. The Garonne seems to be one of those places where people drift in and then find it difficult to leave.<br />
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So, decision made, we ate our last fish 'n chips, once again failed to win the port quiz, enjoyed a final great couple of nights' music with Sandra and Terry's 'Felixstatic' and said our fond goodbyes to Buzet.<br />
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-52551307925753593882019-07-08T22:47:00.000+01:002019-07-09T09:53:01.020+01:00Mini Tornado<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Matthew - Wapping Wharf Bristol</td></tr>
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What happened to June's blog posts? Did we expire in the extreme heat? Did we give up and flee to cooler northern climes? Or was it that we were simply just too busy to write? Onboard we had our own small weather event (metaphorically speaking). A whirlwind, tiny in size but bursting with energy - our 21 month old granddaughter. In the tradition of naming hurricanes etc let's call her Miss A.<br />
I did spend a few days in the sensibly cool climate of Bristol but as Miss A's parents were tied up with business meetings I was fully occupied- mostly chasing after her. Run Granny Run!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catch me if you can. Wapping Wharf Bristol</td></tr>
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I like Bristol, particularly around the vibrant, old port area where there are many old boats on display and a couple of ships (including Brunel's SS Great Britain) to visit.There was also plenty to keep a toddler interested. Each day we did the rounds of the statues of local worthies all of whom had to be examined and chatted to.<br />
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There were buskers to watch and dance to, an old double decker bus in the museum to clamber upon and the reputedly wonderful 'We the Curious' science and discovery centre to visit. I say reputedly as we never got further than the model Jack Russell dog in the foyer which Miss A loved and wanted to read to every day.<br />
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The many cafes are child friendly with babycinnos for 30p - I'm not sure such a thing exists in France. I've asked only once and was met with a look of such bafflement that I'm not game to enquire again.<br />
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Then it was back to France. We travelled from Catelsarrassin to Buzet sur Baise before the heat finally drove our visitors ashore and away to the Spanish coast. Tonight we can see lightning strikes from one window, a nuclear power station from another and hear thunder rumbling around us. All that energy but it's not a patch on our tornado toddler. We miss her.<br />
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I have a few observations on toddlers onboard which I'll make in a separate post.Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-9087619947167962772019-05-30T18:43:00.000+01:002019-07-09T09:53:56.126+01:00The High Life<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Mothers' Day Market at Castelsarrasin</div>
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Our first night of 2019 on board and I'm feeling a little concerned. The boat shifts slightly as we walk around and every so often a shiver passes through her from stern to bow. So what? Boats are supposed to sway as they float 'gently down the stream' (as our granddaughter would sing). We aren't afloat though. We are perched (teetering to my mind) on wooden blocks and it's a long way down a rickety ladder to the hard ground. The shuddering is caused by long trains zooming past at up to 200 kmph - we are parked right up against the railway fence. Just on the other side is the main line from Toulouse to Bordeaux. The joys of life aboard - on land.<br />
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On our arrival in France we spent 4 nights in a hotel to minimise the discomfort of camping onboard. During that time we repainted l'Avenir's bottom and generally cleaned up as much as we could. Not easy without a water connection. The boatyard is large but the power and water outlets are few. We have a long extension to connect to the electricity but water has to be fetched by bucket or container and then hoisted on board via a rope slung over the side.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of those 'working t shirts' put to good use. Only 29 to go.</td></tr>
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Somehow, when we return each year, the boat never looks as clean and tidy as it seemed when we left. Understandably the outside needs a good scrub after months of rain and wind plus a coating of soot from people's winter fires but the inside also always looks a bit forlorn. Dust that escaped the final vacuum clean has settled over everything; a pair of grubby jeans lurks in the laundry basket; a few dead spiders lie in the corners. And, disappointingly, someone has made off with our satellite dish. In all the years we've been boating we've only ever had 2 items stolen - a boathook and a bucket (one near miss with my bike though). I suppose we should have brought it inside.</div>
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Another disheartening discovery (not entirely unexpected though) is that, once again, my clothes seem to have shrunk over the northern winter whilst Rob's t shirts have multiplied. I have tried to cull the latter only for them to be retrieved as 'working t shirts'. Enough have been saved to wear a clean one every day for a month.<br />
I've done disappointing and disheartening. They are pretty wishy-washy words for how we feel about our brand new, expensive, made-to-measure canvas canopy. After our old canopy was damaged last summer we decided to take it home to Australia and have a new one made. The boat detailer we took it to (who had done work for us previously) assured us he could do the job. He would take the old canopy to pieces and make a pattern from the pieces. It took him all of the Australian summer to get around to the job and in the end we only got the finished product back the week before we left. You know how this is going to pan out I'm sure. Let me tell you that after we attempted to put it up there was one of those word clouds hanging over the boat for days. It was the bluest of blue and filled with words that would make your ears burn. So, what do we do? We just have to try and make things fit as best we can. Modify/cut down the frame, move the fasteners, perhaps buy a sewing machine and add in some extra canvas. I don't know who taught that guy to measure. Polite words fail me.<br />
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We've done all we can for the moment. Today is a holiday. Tomorrow morning we are slotted in for relaunching and I am feeling more nervous than I was when we were pulled out - now I know what expect. That launching ramp seems a very long way from here.<br />
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Welcome back to the blog for the 2019 season. This summer<br />
we will be on board for longer than the past couple of years. No new babies to welcome! I hope you enjoy following our trip.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An escapee from the Marche de Volailles (poultry market)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ellsYFKctQU/XPAUSvE_AbI/AAAAAAAAD3U/WrTDzGXPRXUWiUi-RUV6xVpR2w-Abyr4wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190530_112018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ellsYFKctQU/XPAUSvE_AbI/AAAAAAAAD3U/WrTDzGXPRXUWiUi-RUV6xVpR2w-Abyr4wCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_20190530_112018.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castelsarrasin has a great market every Thursday, It takes over all the streets in the town centre.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K2c-eyeuGH8/XPAUvyY9iPI/AAAAAAAAD3g/IfnP1_X9I38MjBKs2WcFW4QsrJ2mUa9wgCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_20190530_112000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K2c-eyeuGH8/XPAUvyY9iPI/AAAAAAAAD3g/IfnP1_X9I38MjBKs2WcFW4QsrJ2mUa9wgCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_20190530_112000.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The goat cheese stall owner brings along his goats for the day</td></tr>
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Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-43942063191823942962019-03-22T06:38:00.002+00:002019-07-09T09:53:31.212+01:00Red Lights and Phone Numbers<br />
This was written half way through last year. Not sure how it never appeared and here we are almost ready to begin a new season. Looking forward to a great summer ahead. This year we may head back up the Rhone - who knows?<br />
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Two red lights - cue sighs, groans or worse. One red means hang about for a few minutes; relax while we get things ready for you. But two. Two means STOP.<br />
Something's 'en panne' (broken down) and it might be a while.<br />
STOP complaining and tie up.<br />
STOP your engine. Settle down and send someone ashore who speaks a modicum of French to find out what's gone wrong and if necessary, send for help.<br />
That would be me then.<br />
If the red light happens to be at the upstream end of the magnificent Agen Aqueduct then there's also a 523m trek to the intercom located at the lock.<br />
So, ignoring the no cycling sign I set off along the tow path across the aqueduct - a bit of a white knuckle ride for me. I'm a wobbly rider at the best of times and the tow path is quite narrow and bumpy so no opportunity to even glance at the view below for fear of toppling into the canal. Fortunately I didn't meet anyone coming the other way.<br />
Pressing the button on the lock intercom usually connects you to a central control where you give the details of the lock number you're calling from and a description of the problem and someone will come and sort it out. Not always though. The intercom might not work, there might be a sticker with a number to phone instead or worst of all (for me) there will be a recorded message in high speed French giving you a number to phone. There are lots of lessons on the internet devoted to practising phone numbers. Knowing zero to nine is not enough- you need to <i>learn </i>all the way to 99. Without pausing for thought.<br />
And so it was at the Agen Aqueduct lock. A recorded message with a number to call and me with no pen. All I could do was play the message over and over whilst trying to get a bit more of the number into my phone each time. (Should you be wondering - no, I can't record onto my ancient phone). Before I had finished (quite a long while before) a young man appeared at my side. 'Can I help?' he asked.<br />
'I'm trying to call the lock keeper.'<br />
'I know,' he said.<br />
He was the lock keeper and had run up the hill from the offices (in the sweltering heat but still smiling) to find out who was repeatedly pressing the intercom (although I'm not clear as to why he was unable to answer it). Perhaps his intercom system is of a similar generation to my phone<br />
Anyway, there he was, ready and able to reset the lights and the lock a lot quicker than I can work out a ten digit French phone number.<br />
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You may be thinking, 'it can't be that hard'. So, here's an example of an imaginary (I hope) French phone number.<br />
05 38 74 86 92 would be spoken (with minimal pauses) as zero cinque trente huit soixante quatorze quatre-vingt douze<br />
which translates as - zero five, thirty-eight, seventy-four (literally sixty fourteen i,e 60+14), ninety-two (literally four-twenty twelve i.e 4x20+12).<br />
Simple really.<br />
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<br />Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1336628087786355287.post-65458190023868847842018-10-08T19:37:00.002+01:002020-05-05T03:43:18.233+01:00High and Dry<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Some pictures from the lift out. All very nerve wracking. Not enjoying living onboard for these last few days. Will add to this later. Busy packing and winterising.<br />
And the trains aren't running. We finish as we began.....<br />
Apologies -I never did get around to adding to this post and here we are one week away from returning to France for the 2019 season. Looking forward to being back onboard - once she's afloat again that is.Catriona and Robhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08285122765807748972noreply@blogger.com0