Heatwave

Void, Lorraine, France

It may have taken a little time for summer to really start in this part of the world but then we had a weekend of 38/40 C to remind us to 'be careful what you wish for'. We were in the new port of Chalons en Champagne -a town which really merited much further exploration than the air conditioned supermarket but not at those temperatures. 'But you're from Australia, you should be used to this,' people said. Yes indeed - but we generally don't go out in it. At least I don't. Going outside, however, was preferable to cooking inside our steel boat where the heat was very definitely at slow roast levels.
From Chalons we went to Vitry le Francois which is at the crossroads of the Canal du Marne au Rhin and the Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne (which we went up and down last year). We had been told that Vitry wasn't worth visiting and when we arrived at the miniscule port opposite a boatyard lined with decrepit, barely- floating barges and sad-looking, partially dismantled boats on land it did seem a bit unprepossessing. Perhaps that's as far as our disgruntled informant went. The town is, in fact, very pleasant particularly the Place d'Armes where we had a very good meal. 90% of the town was destroyed in WW2 but, as with many French towns and cities, it has been restored/rebuilt quite handsomely.

Vitry le Francois

After Vitry it was onwards and upwards - lock after lock, 20 or so in 20 km each day. We've been quite lucky only having to call out the lock keepers twice (touch wood. We have an awful lot to go). This canal is virtually deserted and passes through quiet countryside. Today we met only one other boat. The only major town we've been through since Vitry is Bar le Duc where the 'sacred road' of WW1 began (supply road to battlefields of Verdun). Bar le Duc is really 2 towns in one. The lower town, being the centre of commerce, is bustling and noisy. The 'Ville Haute', perched on a hilltop and reached via narrow, steep streets and steps is peaceful and elegant and has, in the church Saint Etienne, one of the most macabre sculptures ( Le Transi de Rene de Chalon by Ligier Richier) that I've ever seen.

Clock Tower Bar le Duc

We've stopped at several villages with varying facilities. Usually there's a baker but at this time of year s/he may be on holiday. There's nearly always a hairdresser (or 2 or 3) and a pharmacy - usually the busiest spot in town. I must make mention of a little village called Fains les Sources which has, amongst other things, a 'restaurant scolaires' ie a school canteen. Only it's not a canteen - it's very much a restaurant. In keeping with the serious attitude the French have for the business of food this restaurant (and I think it is probably for primary school kids) has a weekly menu, (each day and each week is different) posted in the window. There are 4 courses, no apparent 'options' and no burgers and chips. So, there's an entree which might be something like tomato vinaigrette or radish in butter, a main, perhaps boeuf bourguignon or fillet of duck and gravy, a veg such as pureed cauliflower or potatoes, then a selection of cheeses and a dessert. I have no idea what the cost is but I'm betting it's very reasonable. I'm sure that Fains les Sources is by no means unique in offering this service, it's just the first I've noticed. Jamie Oliver would be impressed. I am impressed.
Today we reached the summit of this canal so it's all downhill from here - until the next climb up the Vosges mountains. At the summit we passed through a tunnel of almost 5km - the Mauvages.


Waiting to enter the Mauvages Tunnel

In the Mauvages Tunnel - our flag's looking the worse for wear

The other end of the Mauvages Tunnel - almost 5km long

Yesterday we were given a laminated sheet of regulations regarding this tunnel. Of paramount importance was the information that all boats had to be towed through by an electrically powered barge - 'no exceptions' and that we had to present ourselves at the tunnel entrance at 9.15am. So we, along with 2 other boats, arrive on time. There's no towing barge in evidence but there are 2 waterways officials who wave us through at 30 second intervals and then follow us by bicycle along the tunnel's towpath in order to keep an eye on us and wave goodbye at the other end. We still have the laminated sheet. We tried to return it to the first lock keeper we met but he didn't want it. He just laughed and said, 'I've seen that.'